NewStats: 3,261,507 , 8,174,198 topics. Date: Thursday, 29 May 2025 at 01:05 PM 453s2n

Billions123:
Hi Everyone,

I went to inspect a project yesterday whose plumbing was just finished. I noticed the water pressure from the water outlets indoor is low.

What i mean is that I expect the water from the kitchen faucet, wash hand basins and the shower mixer to gush. But the water is rather just coming out with no pressure at all.

The compound tap outside gushes with pressure tho.

What could be the problem? Could it be the product used?

The height of your tank stand is to blame. The higher the water tank from the water outlet, the higher the "pressure" or speed of flow of water. The outdoor tap is obviously lower than the indoor taps, hence the higher pressure outside. This is why showers usually have the least pressure, because they are installed higher and thus closer to the water tank.

You can boost the pressure by either increasing the height of the tank stand or installing a pressure pump or manipulating the sizes of the supply pipes.

ceelog:
Morning Experts.

Please how does one correct an error of toliet waste pipe being too high and requiring raising the toliet seat with block during installation?
The option of raising the toilet seat with block is annoying. And breaking and raising the entire bath and toliet floor with an already fixed door is also posing a problem.
Tiling has been done.

Any experince and possible neat solution to this?
Thanks.

Why can't you just redo the piping? Of course, you'd have to do a bit of destructive cracking of tiles and block wall around the pipe, but this can always be fixed after bringing the waste pipe down to the preferred height.

diordaves:


I'm not sure you technically understand what a chamberless plumbing is. What you described is a PVC Chamber plumbing same as a brick and mortar chamber.

A chamberless plumbing DOES NOT HAVE AN INSPECTION CHAMBER . See the attached photos.

Have a look at the attached chamberless plumbings photos; it is not difficult to see why they are highly prone to blockage and high maintenance cost.

Even without the PVC chamber, the system still has clean-out points at strategic points, as seen in your 2nd to 4th pictures (see attached below).

All you need do in case of blockage is open those points and use a long flexible pipe, like a PPR pipe for instance, to poke through those drain pipes and then flush with water. No need to involve a plumber.

If a chamberless system is done right, it's even less prone to blockages and much easier to maintain. The ones in those pictures weren't done right though. Drain pipes are usually 6" rather than 4", and sharp bends are usually avoided, for instance by using 45° elbows instead of 90° or using Y-Tee fittings instead of Tee fittings.

diordaves:


It is not a question of which is better. Chamberless plumbing is not best practice. All soil pipes and drains should have a chamber for easy access maintenance and cleaning. Chamberless plumbing is highly prone to blockage and high maintenance.

'Chamberless' plumbing just means doing it without the 'traditional' block and mortar chambers. It does not necessarily mean doing without maintenance access. The block and mortar chambers are usually replaced by PVC chambers and/or PVC Y-Tee fittings that serve as clean-out points and these fittings aren't any more prone to blockage than block and mortar chambers.

Maintenance, with respect to blockages, is even easier and cheaper in my opinion, and can be completely DIY.

Please can anyone here recommend any really useful free or modded version of an android AI Home Interior Design App? Thanks in advance.

MDDarah84:
Hey peeps,

When is the best time to fix exterior steel security doors? Seller said after plastering and tiling to ensure perfection,handler said before plastering.

Please advise me.

You can install the doors before or after plastering depending on your personal preference or whether you'd need to use the house for storage of cement for plastering, assuming you've already installed windows and protectors.

As for tiling, I believe it's best done after installation of steel doors, especially if you're buying ready made doors that come with fixed height ( you can't adjust the height of the door but you can adjust the level of your tiling). Infact you can even wait until after ceiling work before doing your tiling.

Alliswell73:


What modification would you like to make? I'd love to hear about it for correction, sir?

I would have preferred the master bedroom to be at a corner of the building so it can be better ventilated by having windows on adjacent walls instead of just one wall. I'd ask the architect to edit the room at top left hand corner into the master bedroom.

The lobby is an enclosed space without a window so it will be very dark round the clock and without any ventilation. Your architect should do something to remedy that. Removing that dining/lobby wall like someone suggested earlier is an option, but that will effectively add to the living room and dining space, hence requiring more air conditioning power to cool that entire space. I'd prefer to just add a fixed non-transparent window to that wall to let in some daylight from the dining into the lobby

The laundry should have an external window for lighting and ventilation. I'd also add an internal sliding window on the wall demarcating the laundry from the lobby to ventilate the lobby and also add some daylight from the laundry into the lobby.

Alliswell73:
Which one would you pick? A OR B

State your reason(s)

It's B for me. I like the fact that the anteroom also opens into the lobby, so one must not go through the living room to access the bed rooms. Also prefer to access the guest room through the lobby rather than directly from the ante room.

Also prefer the laundry to have it's own exit door so laundry does not have to go through kitchen or ante room.

I also prefer the living room and dining ventilation in B.

I would still make some modifications though.

fxtree:
Greetings all,

I need a second opinion on the BoQ for a duplex. I need recommendations on who can do it for me.

Thanks

Our very own QSFemi on this property forum is very capable.

bobkezel:
Good morning aluminum guys or any experienced person in the house...
Pls is there a way to secure sliding windows from theft??

Only way I can think of is going old school by installing external window protectors instead of the popular and more preferable internal type.

MDDarah84:
Can one do POP before doors and windows are installed?

You can, but doing doors and windows first means you can safely store your POP materials within the building while on the job, do wiring safely before POP (which is preferred by most electricians), and your workers can also sleep within until the job is done (which is quite cost effective for those that came from a long distance away).

Philipok:
is my work bro try me

Nobody is arguing that bro. He only asked if you're the one that did those jobs you posted. So far, your answers haven't been straight forward.

Philipok:
that u see is list of what I can do,all is my work,no be today I started this journey,15 years is not a child,if u want to get proof try give me work,if I can't deliver the exact thing,then u conclude

The question wasn't whether you can do it, but if those jobs you posted were actually done by you. 15 years on the job, then surely you must have tonnes of pictures of your actual jobs to post. Nor be my job you go carry prove to me say you fit do am. You can show proof by posting your own jobs or have previous clients review your jobs on here. Thanks.

dapotemi:
Hello house, pls how much can I budget as labor for an experience bricklayer for a 3 bedroom project from foundation to lintel/level in Ogun state .....It's a small but simple design on a half plot...I'll be speaking to some recommended mason this week .You can also refer if you have trusted ones that can read drawing. your input will be appreciated.
Thank you

If you're planning to build by direct labour, it's best you know how to read and implement the design yourself, otherwise you better engage a professional builder/engineer. Do not depend on a bricklayer to do that for you. E get why!

saydfact:


The answer is NO..

Broken lines refer to the element above lintel level not seen in plan.. eg a canopy etc

Oh in that case, the placement of several of the windows seems a bit weird to me. Only way I could rationalize it was that maybe the broken lines represented boundary lines.

Dendrick123:
Good day my Elders, please I need your honest critique on this plan;
@EgunMogaji2
@saydfact
@rotecch77

Does the broken lines represent the boundaries of the plot of land?

Charisdesigns:


I like you submission

But at bolded, do you mean continuing the block wall till window or lintel level while waiting for natural compaction?

If yes, then he might have to battle with rising dampness overtime...

Yes, but after 'chaining.'

Jaakay:
Good morning, pls I need a bit of advice. I have done filling for my foundation, but was wondering if I need to put harcore and iron prior to casting the German floor. Is it still necessary? Note, this is a duplex

No need for all that. Just water it liberally and make sure it's properly compacted, then do your casting.

Alternatively, if you're not going to do decking anytime soon, you can skip that step for now and continue with plinth beam (chaining), block laying and so on, to allow the filling compact naturally over time as rain falls on it.

LinoBawse:
Good morning my Nairaland people,

So I have an issue, it’s kinda unrelated to this thread but I believe I’ll get assistance here

After staying 2 years in an apartment, my rent expired exactly August 1st, 2024 and after expiry landlord reached out for his money and I politely told him I’ll be moving out and I need some time to secure a new place before parking my load out of his house, he then asked for how much time, I told him maximum by middle of September (next month) I should have gotten a new space. This man then told him I’ll have to pay him for 2 months that is august and September and I’m like how possible? I just told you I need some time to move my loads and you are asking me to pay? Okay I didn’t want to argue so I should stopped the conversation and left politely.

So my question now is, what should I do in this case?

Please bear in mind that when I got this apartment, he collected legal fees and I was never given any agreement form to sign.

I honestly don’t want to pay him any dime. What can I do? How best can I approach this.

Thanks, I look forward to reading from you all.

Regards.

Since you know you'd need up to 2 months to secure a new place and move out, why didn't you start looking for one 2 months before your rent expiry date. Your landlord has every right to demand that you pay for the extended stay.

koolengrtimmy:


Yes its not final but the land is abit soft to excavate manually except you wanna hire a machine[ whichever is cheaper].

In my area during rainy season, just a couple of feet below the surface, and you'll hit the ground water table. If you now add more rainfall to this mix, in addition to our clay soil, erosion and land slide will virtually backfill that hole before dry season. Just saying...

koolengrtimmy:


You can start excavating now to your preferred depth while the soil is softer now.

Leave the main block setting till dry season.

I don't know about other regions, but in my area if you try this, then you should be ready to spend again on excavation by the time dry season arrives.

floshady02:
Is it advisable to construct septic tanks during rainy season? Contributions will be highly appreciated.

In the south south, it is preferably done in dry season when ground water level is at it's lowest and also because when it rains, the walls of the dug out pit usually cave in.

Folsom:
Hi guys, please can one use a structural design like this to determine or estimate the quantity of wood work that can be used to roof this house and also possibly stone coated roof needed for it . Just a rough estimate will give me an idea

A Quantity Surveyor can do it for you. For a reasonable fee, @QSFemi can deliver an estimate for you with those drawings.

bolu1986:



The estate security should be questioned! trust with police someone will talk, there is no way such materials will leave site and the estate security wont know about it... unless ENgr raymond just want to let go

True! The whole thing smells like an organized inside job.

twinskenny:


you supplied materials to a site and they stole part of it the first time, did the same the second and third time and you still left your equipment there>? cause the engr say so.. Na i wont do that my brother.. even though the engr should share most of the blame the sub contractor should also take part.

This is exactly my thoughts as well. The fact that Adedward knew about the lack of safety at the site and still left his tools there because of reassurances from the site Engr makes him partly responsible. If there were no previous incidents of theft, then the Engr would have been fully responsible.

raymondFirstborn:


The question is, if this happened to you guys, would u buy back both materials and tools.

I really hope everyone ing him, experiences this same situation. That's the only way humans understand.

Yes I would take part or full responsibility if I guaranteed security for his tools.

If an artisan keeps his tools at my site without my knowledge or without me guaranteeing security, especially knowing that materials have gone missing from same site on several occasions in the past, then that artisan is on his own.

I have personally taken artisans' tools home just to keep them safe, but that's only when such tools were handed over to me or I guaranteed security for them.

raymondFirstborn:
You guys have not asked adedward which tools he has been working with. After he left my project.

This may not be so relevant Sir. He may have spare tools to continue with the job, but the fact is that he lost expensive tools on your site and his desire to have them replaced is totally valid. He may also feel if he completes your job either with rented tools or his spare tools, that his missing tools will not be replaced, hence holding back on materials not yet delivered.

raymondFirstborn:
if he bribes his way through. It's possible.but very small items. As small as machines.

These are just allegations Sir. If you can prove it, please go ahead. Even if it's "I my neighbor" generator, wouldn't the estate security notice it?

By the way, he can also allege that you or your staff took away the tools as well.

Adedward:
sir, I am not agreed with u, if I said I want to carry my tools down to mainland but force den, he will be thinking that I don't want to come on time, I obey his team that said we should keep it there, we talking about almost 1m tools,

You only presumed he would think that way Sir. If you had insisted on going with your tools, citing apparent lack of security at the site as your reason, and he still insisted you kept them, then I believe that would have absolved you of all responsibility for the missing tools.

raymondFirstborn:
There's also a possibility that adedward has been to the site to take his tools while we were on Christmas break.
Because ADEDWARD told me he has been handling other projects aside my own project.

Please ask adedward which tools he has been using to execute other projects.

Only if you can prove it Sir...

Would the estate security allow him to carry a generator and an aluminum cutting machine out of the estate without permission?

raymondFirstborn:


I have accepted my loss on materials, he should do the same for his tool.
That's business bro .

You don't get it. We have offered to rent tools pending when we are able to raise funds. He just doesn't want to carry on

You guaranteed security for his tools Sir, so you're partly at fault.

Adedward:
on that very day during festival period, I asked him of my own tools safety, he said we should keep it to one of his bricklayer room there that he was safe, and securities is full there, if I insist i know what he will be thinking, but I accept with him,

Despite the fact, you still have to take some responsibility. Final decision on keeping your tools there always rested on your shoulders. Knowing what had already occured 3 times before, and still decided to keep the tools there, means you are partly at fault Sir.