NewStats: 3,262,933 , 8,178,563 topics. Date: Wednesday, 04 June 2025 at 06:35 AM 4m2h47

Trippledots:


These Alaba guys are terrible. Currently having a bad time with one battery gotten from a supposed direct OEMs store at Alaba. To get quality product from there is almost always like Russian roulette.

Pls which OEM store oo so we can be extra careful?

toscotech:


please can you give me there address in abeokuta

At Panseke, it's just by the bend after the traffic light when coming from Panseke and going towards oke ilewo.

fuckboys:
no, I was still under the recommended voltage of the cc for 12v system.


Total voltage was around 64v

4pcs of cworth s connected in 2p s 2p

Each pv has a max voltage of 31.6v

Its not by this calculation sir. U sudnt be doing more than 2 of ur s on this CC which is 800v

Iinnov8:


Regarding the emboldened; did you want to refer to VoC limit of the controller, considering the battery voltage (12v)?

If yes, then I doubt that is the issue here because the VoC of each of his s is less than 40v and he is on a 2s2p connection, keeping the VoC of the s less than 80v, the recommended VoC for a 12v system

It works 2 ways boss. The VOC and also max s for each battery voltage. For a 12v system, the max VOC is 80v and the s is 720w. U can go slightly above it and still be safe but not recommended to overdo it.

BigDickProblems:


And look at what the high voltage has caused. He could have gotten 12volts and the appropriate cable for the set charging current.

His problem was from using more s than specified for the battery voltage.
Even if you want to go above the limit, dont over do it cos u wud end up likely having issues

BigDickProblems:


Yeah. To be frank you should have gone with 180Watts or 200watts s that are originally for 12v system. Just parallel them and set that ampere to the required charge current in your controller.

Try using your PWM to wake it up, if it’s still available.

This isn't the ideal if using an mppt. Higher voltage means more efficiency in performance and cost in lesser guage wires

fuckboys:
someone is saying my s are too much for 12v. Is that even possible?

Lolz, there's a reason its quoted in the manual the PV
voltage limit for the different battery voltages

olopan:
It has a working communication and above all, it has full capacity

quote author=Drgreatone post=135085524]
What's ur review of the vestwoods battery seeing as u mentioned it here over the more common ones like feli, sms, cworth or sako?

Thanks

olopan:
Hello!

You will need a 5kVA/6kVA inverter hybrid (Deye, Growatt, Tbb) or conventional type (victron, Tbb, felicity) if you need to run both the AC and pump simultaneously

But if you plan to be self-conscious and know you won't run both together, then going for 3.5 kVA is a better choice.

For the ideal solar power, you will need around 6,500 Wp of solar s (Jinko, JA, Longi, Canadian) and a 120A solar charge controller.

Battery choice (Vestwoods, Deriy, Pylonytech, Growatt)

Lastly, with your budget i see things coming together in a 3.5 kVA range, especially when inverter, solar s and BOS are all factored in.

quote author=Ahyjo post=135077118]Hello experts in the house. I’ve been following all the discussions diligently especially the recent ones with regard to the lithium batteries. I am about to upgrade my system to be able to take a 1.5HP AC and also my 1HP submersible pump. Please I need your advice on the appropriate inverter to get ( both KVA (minimum required) and brand ) , the best lithium battery (14-15kwh) and CC (if the suggested inverter is not hybrid), and lastly the appropriate PV array. Thank you. As we all know these things don’t come cheap, so it’s better for one to do due diligence before investing in them, and there’s no better place to get appropriate information like here. Please advise me based on experience and not brand specifications.

My working budget is 3M - 3.5M
Kindly advice please.

What's ur review of the vestwoods battery seeing as u mentioned it here over the more common ones like feli, sms, cworth or sako?

fuckboys:
Some of you don't ven know how mppt works

First image at just 8:30am cc is getting 55.6V from the s and delivering 164w of power.

Second image , the cc is actually charging the battery at 13.3v and 13.1amps.


So you can see the high pvc voltage doesn't matter so long you stay within the parameters of the cc

You both saying the same thing. There is a reason the manufacturer put VOC limit to each battery voltage ie 12/24/48v as its based on their research

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

For s:

Jinko 440w x 12 = 5,280w
Cworth 500w x 10 = 5,000w

Total 10,280w

Average sustained production per hour when skies are almost clear of clouds is 8,150wh

For batteries:

51.2v x 486ah (the max I am willing to discharge) = 24.8kwh

Bms is Jk with communication board and 2Amp active balancer

Full charge 55v, float at 54.9v

For inverter:

6kw Deye SUN-6K-OG01LP1-EU-AM2.

It use to be a 10.2kw sms, but i have documented my dissatisfaction with it, so I got the Deye instead. Besides, I realised I dont use more than 4kw at a time, and if eventually I will need more than 6kw at a time, I can always parallel the deye with another deye 6kw inverter to get 12kw.


For monitoring:

1. Inbuilt deye wifi for Deye cloud
2. Solarman
3. Solar Assistant Raspberry Pi 5

Current Load (they are not all turned on at the same time):

Average total daily load is 25kw - 30kw (24hrs)

13kw - 15kw is average night time load (7pm - 7am)

On average I have 50 percent battery left in the morning, except for multiple rainy days.

1xLg 1hp inverter ac (average 9hrs daily)
1xLg 1.5hp inverter ac (currently faulty, usually 3hrs daily)
1xNexus 1hp inverter ac (average 11hrs daily)
1xMicrowave (20mins daily)
1xAirfryer (1hr weekly)
1xCoffee brewing machine (15mins daily)
1xShower water heater (twice/thrice each day)
1xPressure booster pump (automated, on 24/7)
1x1hp sumo (thrice weekly, 30mins per run)
1x13kg washing machine (twice/thrice weekly 1hr per run)
1xHisense heat-pump cloth dryer (twice/thrice weekly 4hrs per run)
1x300l chest freezer (17hrs daily)
1x615L double door fridge (17hrs daily)
1x75inch tv (10 hrs daily)
1x55inch tv (30m daily)
1x Xbox series x digital edition (3 hrs daily, always on standby 24/7)
1x Starlink (running 24/7)
1x Gli.net Router (running 24/7)
1x 2500w steam iron (twice a week)
1x Fan (15hrs daily)
1x kitchen fan (17hrs daily)
1x heavy duty Blender (average once a week for 10mins)
1x Cway dispenser hot and cold (18hrs daily)
—Indoor and outdoor lights (17hrs average daily)
—Smart speakers (24/7 standby)
—Laptop charger, phone chargers, smart switches (always plugged, on standby and used on demand)
— Smart Cameras
— Miscellaneous

What happened to the SMS inverter, guess i missed the post?

HeavenlyBang:


Bolt them up in series.

Boss he said 12v system ooo. Max those 60a mppts take is 800w

Dam5reey1:
Cworth 24V 100AH, available for 575k 540k..

Scatter the market sir... We dey ur back

Dam5reey1:


Just know what you are doing, you can safely do it for science.

U dey find comrade u sir...

Nteogwuija:


I'm facing same issue. Mine is CWorth's 350w(×3) equalling 1050w. The highest I've gotten during peak period is 535w.

I'm staying at the down floor of a 2 storey building, making it difficult and costly mounting the s on the roof. So I had to install it by the side of the building. So I'm guessing the building is affecting the PV's output.

I'm curious at how mounting it on the roof is costlier? How did you install it by the side? Metal brackets or how? U wud be getting shadows which wud limit production. The only thing expensive using the roof would be the length of wires used which in the long run wud give more efficiency than the side u used cos of the direct sun hitting it without shadows

Mrreed:
I have seen it many times. Sako 5.5kva, I used Jinko 450w x4 and the yield was below 10% till I added 2 more s.

What VOC were u getting with the initial 4 s? I usually try to get around 150v and it works well for me

ManAdii:

It's not just the building. Cworth s are shit. I have 5 of them installed and the highest I have gotten from them at peak sun is 1.2kw out of the 1.75kw.

Even when I tested it with my multimeter before mounting it. The Isc is not up to what is on the label but the Voltage is.

Different strokes for different folks. Some other ppl av vouched for the performance. I hope ur roof inclination/distance isnt the issue here. Also the battery voltage/load cud also be the culprit here. U still getting over 68% yield which is better than many fake sticker s output.

HeavenlyBang:


Growatt 48v 6kw - ~500k
Eight Jinko 550w - 1m
Not sure if there's a 10kwh Deriy pack but it's probably your best option here. You go need extend your budget to 3m last last but this should take you off-grid entirely.

He can still do 4 based on his budget and manage it with grid pending when he's able to add s on later.

AinsSama:

Welcome fellow enthusiast.

3.5kw 24V hybrid inverter (Welion, Sako, SMS, Growatt) - 350k
5 600W or higher-rated Solar s (Jinko, Canadian) - 700-800k
24V 10kwh Lithium battery (Deriy, CWorth, SMS, Sako, DIY) - 1.3-1.6m
Installation materials and installation fee- whatever change is left will do this.

Make sure whatever item you're getting is genuine. Reach out if you need any assistance in getting them.

Apart from sms and maybe deriy, u wont get others at that price range?

Mrreed:
I am waiting for Dami to buy one for science 😁

@dam5reey1 come and do it for science sir

GloryJoyeux:
Hey folks,

Just wanted to drop a solid recommendation for anyone considering the new Deye 6kW hybrid inverter. I recently got my hands on one and have been running it pretty hard to see what it’s made of — and honestly, I’m impressed.

First off, it’s parallel capable up to 16 units, so scaling up is no issue. Efficiency-wise, this thing is tight — I clocked idle power draw at just 30W when running a 1.6kWh load, and it only pulled under 100W even with 4kWh flowing. I also put max sustained load of 6kw, it took it like a champ! That’s some seriously optimized idle-to-load performance.

Now, let’s talk MPPTs. The Deye has a new feature under Advanced Settings called “MPPT Multi-Point”. Game changer. One of my PV strings gets shaded after 1PM, and normally performance drops off hard. But with this setting enabled, the inverter kept pulling full amps from the unshaded s — like it knew exactly what to do. I ran the numbers — the gain was legit.

Sound-wise, it’s practically silent. It uses just one fan, which only kicks in at high loads. No annoying coil whine either — just a soft whoosh when it ramps up. I’m running 10,280W of solar into it, though it can handle up to 12,000W on dual MPPTs. It charges and discharges at 135A, and with an IP65 rating, it’s perfect for our dusty, humid conditions. Built-in WiFi made setup easy and remote monitoring is clean.

Small Catch:

Since it’s a newer model, Solar Assistant doesn’t it yet, but I checked — it logs every 60 seconds and pushes data every 5 minutes to the Deye app/web. Accuracy is within 98% of Solar Assistant’s metrics, which is impressive for a stock system.

I also tested it with both closed-loop (BMS comms) and open-loop (voltage-based) battery setups. It handled both without breaking a sweat.

Cost & Efficiency:

It set me back ₦950,000, and honestly? The performance outshines Growatt, Axpert, Sumry, Welion, SMS, Sako — pretty much every other popular Chinese inverter I’ve tested.

One thing I’ve noticed with a lot of these cheaper all-in-one units is they use low-quality conversion components. For example, an SMS inverter I tested lost a constant 4.5kWh/day due to inefficiency. Doesn’t matter if you’re generating 9kWh or 30kWh — you’re losing a minimum of 4.5kWh daily. That’s 135kWh a month gone. Discharge efficiency was also poor — I was only getting 86–89% usable energy out of a 10kWh battery.

With the Deye? I’m seeing up to 96% usable, meaning 9.6kWh out of a 10kWh pack. That’s a huge difference.

Testing Other Brands:

I also tested the true output of other inverters, and most are overrated. A “6.2kW” Sumry unit (sms, welion, sako, powrmr, anern, victor max, daxtraumn etc) barely managed 5.6kW sustained, and a “10.2kW” SMS one capped out at 8.2kW. Turns out, they rate them based on PV input, not actual AC output — which explains a lot.

My Brand Ranking (So Far):
• #1: Deye – most efficient and best built
• #2: SRNE – decent performance, but not quite Deye
• #3: Growatt – solid, but a step below SRNE
• Way down the list: Felicity Solar and similar budget brands

That said, I do have beef with SRNE’s pricing. They’re trying to off their gear as because they’re UL-listed and in the U.S. market. But their 16kWh battery is way overpriced for what you get. It’s just REPT cells rated at 8000 cycles (anyone can get their hands on this cells, and no guarantee its actually grade A sef), and nothing special inside — no thermal padding, no fire suppression, no fancy BMS features. You can get better-built packs from Deriy, Bicodi, Gospower, Lvtopsun, or Valtech for less.

Quite a long read, if you have any questions you can ask me.

How would u rate the sumry units in order of performance?

Mrreed:

If you can afford to spend the total here, here is a better option
There is a brand "Haisic" that sells
25.6v 8kwh for 800k (as contained in their spec sheet, it's a Grade B battery)
24v 4kva transformerless inverter 340-350k
590w Jinko x4 is better
6mm cable, breakers, SPD and the box will cost you less than 160k if you are staying in a bungalow and will be installing the system close to your DB

You the second person mentioning this battery brand, how well do they perform?

dollarnaira:

Personally I will make use of the monos only:
38.2 × 4 = 152.8v for 24v (max cc 160v)

While the max VOC is 160v, its 105v max if using a 24v setup

CaptainZubi:
I noticed my inverter starts beeping and eventually turns off when there is little sunlight for as low as just 10 minutes (when gate and compound lights are on). When tv and fan is also on, it starts beeping in as low as just 2 minutes and then goes off. In a nut shell, e wan be like na when sun dey blaze e dey function well.

Then after careful thought, I decided to disconnect the MPPT charge controller and connect the batteries and solar wires directly by bying the charge controller. Omo rain fell for 2 hours and I still had light with TV , fan and every every on. If it was before, the inverter for don off coz there is little sunlight. What could be the issue and what could be wrong? I'm a novice on solar energy but it seems like the charge controller is not allowing the batteries to charge properly. That's what I'm thinking.


Is this also a good or bad decision?

You are at risk of fire outbreak from ur batteries by bying the charge controller.
You didnt mention the wattage and nos of s plus how they are arranged either in series or parallel?

toscotech:


i dont get how to enter setting

How to set the settings are in ur inverter manual. Press the enter button for a few seconds to enter the settings page and then ffl the manual

Obnoxious2001:

Set as defined. I think option 05 in the settings menu

Then set float and buck to 56.5 I think option 27&28

Then set your low battery cutoff option 29.



Please use manual to confirm what I typed above...

Cutoff to 29v, sure its a typo. Your low voltage disconnect sud be at 48v