NewStats: 3,261,650 , 8,174,647 topics. Date: Thursday, 29 May 2025 at 11:09 PM 213ed

Intellab:
My build can’t power my 1HP astra Sumo pump. The Sumo switch is on, but it behaves as if the current is too low.

Here’s my setup:
8 pieces of 314Ah LiFePO4 batteries from Valto, connected in parallel using busbars.
200A JK 1A active balancer with Bluetooth BMS
60A Felicity MPPTz
2 solar s rated at 250 watts each.

I just got the MPPT yesterday. When I tested it, the voltage was at 25.8V. Once I switched on the Sumo, the voltage dropped to 24V, but the pump didn’t start.

I’m thinking that once it charges the system to 28V, it might be able to power the Sumo.

What do you think?

This is a 24v system right? Got confused when you stated 8 psc of 314ah in parallel.

The 2 250w can't do the job until you clarify your set up as 24 or 12v.

What type of inverter are you using?

fuckboys:
The eagle has landed thanks to dare for showing us good deals

Just now just now.

Intellab:
My build can’t power my 1HP astra Sumo pump. The Sumo switch is on, but it behaves as if the current is too low.

Here’s my setup:
8 pieces of 314Ah LiFePO4 batteries from Valto, connected in parallel using busbars.
200A JK 1A active balancer with Bluetooth BMS
60A Felicity MPPTz
2 solar s rated at 250 watts each.

I just got the MPPT yesterday. When I tested it, the voltage was at 25.8V. Once I switched on the Sumo, the voltage dropped to 24V, but the pump didn’t start.

I’m thinking that once it charges the system to 28V, it might be able to power the Sumo.

What do you think?

You're maybe getting 400w from those s at peak sunlight.


Is this a 12v or 24v system?

HeavenlyBang:


You're maybe getting 400w from those s at peak sunlight.


Is this a 12v or 24v system?

24v

dollarnaira:


This is a 24v system right? Got confused when you stated 8 psc of 314ah in parallel.

The 2 250w can't do the job until you clarify your set up as 24 or 12v.

What type of inverter are you using?

It’s 24v. Easun 3000w pure sine wave inverter.

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

It’s not about prompting AI and blindly listening to what it says. Its obvious from the responses the it is being conservative. Let me show you how to prompt.

If you use AI like you just did in an academic setting, you will fail woefully.

AI sometimes is like a search engine that just surfaces responses from forums and articles, some of which can be very very wrong.

You've not shown anything or proven anything as unfortunately you've fallen into the same trap as the obnoxious guy that started this argument did.

First of all what was the question you actually asked the AI before posting your findings? I made it crystal clear the question I asked the AI.

Secondly, as majorly seen on the forum, what manner of cells is available to majority of Nigerians and what are they purchasing? Answer honestly please.

Thirdly, are you disputing the fact that slow charging (and discharging) produces less heat in every mainstream battery and that can only be a positive when it comes to longevity? Are you saying using a clear example, that if if Dam5reey1 had chosen (dishonestly BTW) to discharge the Haisic battery at a far less rate than he recently did (0.1c) he would have not gotten a higher capacity total and vice versa? Are you disputing that if one is able slow charge and meet all their requirements with inverters that run directly from PV they are being silly by not charging their lifepo battery within 2 hours (or less) and letting it sit pregnant and idly for longer, in want for a better word, a bloated state?

And lastly for now, and most importantly, this was what I initially posted:

So answering your question generally, for best longevity of a lifepo battery 0.2c (or less) is recommended .For a 200amps battery that's 40amps.

Clearly that statement says "your battery will live longer if you charge it slower", is that scientifically TRUE or NOT. And note even if it does 1 or 2 extra cycles, that statement is proven true scientifically. The statement is not proven untrue because you deem those 1 or 2 extra cycles as negligible, that is your opinion (which we are all allowed to have, as I have mine).

My original statement can only fairly be compared to those common sense adverts of staying alive when driving and watching your speed based on the impact of having an accident at different speeds. At 10km an hour you are almost certain to live no matter what the collision. At 180km an hour you are almost certain to do fatal damage at any collison. Did we all now start driving at 10km an hour so we can live forever? Does that however disprove the science of driving slowly?

In short this argument has just been an exercise in doing what Nigerians love to do. Shifting a discussion "blindly" to what you want it to be for aggrandisement and not being able to it it. Like I've said clearly from the start, the info is there, chose what you want to achieve with your battery and charge appropriately.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vq6f7BScZ4c?si=6NZ4UyfVLdeYSZPy

Intellab:

It’s 24v. Easun 3000w pure sine wave inverter.

Mine is 0.5hp ( deceitful though) bc it pull 66a from my 12v 3000w Satchet inverter. That is roughly 800w instead of 372w on paper.

With the above, your 1hp ( that if it is not old type) could be 1600w or higher and your inverter can only do 1500w continuous.

And here is the reverse for the man who accused me of not knowing how to use AI but failed to be transparent.

Edit: Nairaland won't allow me to post anymore pics for now....but I reversed the question, which we all can do ourselves.

dollarnaira:



Mine is 0.5hp ( deceitful though) bc it pull 66a from my 12v 3000w Satchet inverter. That is roughly 800w instead of 372w on paper.

With the above, your 1hp ( that if it is not old type) could be 1600w or higher and your inverter can only do 1500w continuous.

On 25v charge, it drops to 24v, then pump starts behaving as if I am trying to power it with a low current.
I will charge to 28v and try.

Intellab:

On 25v charge, it drops to 24v, then pump starts behaving as if I am trying to power it with a low current.
I will charge to 28v and try.

What's your configuration? Parallel or Series?

saint2ace:


What's your configuration? Parallel or Series?

I noticed they are in parallel

.

fuckboys:
I have a columb meter so no need.

Kindly still help out check this feature. It would help all those still considering who don't have coloumb, plus you would also be able to monitor your individual cells.

AndroBlaze:


You've not shown anything or proven anything as unfortunately you've fallen into the same trap as the obnoxious guy that started this argument did.

First of all what was the question you actually asked the AI before posting your findings? I made it crystal clear the question I asked the AI.

Secondly, as majorly seen on the forum, what manner of cells is available to majority of Nigerians and what are they purchasing? Answer honestly please.

Thirdly, are you disputing the fact that slow charging (and discharging) produces less heat in every mainstream battery and that can only be a positive when it comes to longevity? Are you saying using a clear example, that if if Dam5reey1 had chosen (dishonestly BTW) to discharge the Haisic battery at a far less rate than he recently did (0.1c) he would have not gotten a higher capacity total and vice versa? Are you disputing that if one is able slow charge and meet all their requirements with inverters that run directly from PV they are being silly by not charging their lifepo battery within 2 hours (or less) and letting it sit pregnant and idly for longer, in want for a better word, a bloated state?

And lastly for now, and most importantly, this was what I initially posted:


Clearly that statement says "your battery will live longer if you charge it slower", is that scientifically TRUE or NOT. And note even if it does 1 or 2 extra cycles, that statement is proven true scientifically. The statement is not proven untrue because you deem those 1 or 2 extra cycles as negligible, that is your opinion (which we are all allowed to have, as I have mine).

My original statement can only fairly be compared to those common sense adverts of staying alive when driving and watching your speed based on the impact of having an accident at different speeds. At 10km an hour you are almost certain to live no matter what the collision. At 180km an hour you are almost certain to do fatal damage at any collison. Did we all now start driving at 10km an hour so we can live forever? Does that however disprove the science of driving slowly?

In short this argument has just been an exercise in doing what Nigerians love to do. Shifting a discussion "blindly" to what you want it to be for aggrandisement and not being able to it it. Like I've said clearly from the start, the info is there, chose what you want to achieve with your battery and charge appropriately.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vq6f7BScZ4c?si=6NZ4UyfVLdeYSZPy

No need to post too much references sef, even with a little research you will find out that the 6,000-cycle quoted for LiFeP04 is when charged at lower rates e.g 0.2C, 0.3C. Charging a battery too fast negatively affects longevity and this is also true for phone battery as faster charging generates a lot of heat.

Yes it can take 0.5C and more daily, but surely at the expense of lifespan. Even newbies know this is basic chemistry.

Too much AI-generated stuff here.

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

All this plenty incoherent write up for me tho?

Firstly, I won’t show you what I prompted the AI, from this response again it’s obvious you don’t know how to prompt AI, and it’s a skill you can learn. AI can hallucinate and give wrong responses if you cannot prompt it.

It’s not the charge rate that degrades LFP batteries — it’s the heat. If you manage that heat properly, charging at 0.5C or even 1C is not only safe but often optimal for many systems. Lab-tested cells and manufacturer data confirm this across multiple studies.

If they bought Grade B or C cells, I’m wondering if you are the one that sold it to them or you are the manufacturer or the person that coupled it, that you are telling them 0.2C is better than 0.5C or 0.1C for longevity.

Your write up on lower discharge rates (like 0.1C) extracting more capacity from a battery?

Absolutely. Lower discharge rates often increase usable capacity, because:
• Voltage sag is minimized
• BMS doesn’t cut off prematurely
• Cells reach deeper into their nominal capacity

This is not in dispute. But it’s also not exclusive to slow charge—it applies to load-side efficiency. A well-calibrated inverter with good low-voltage cutoff can also help with that.

The driving analogy doesn’t hold — battery degradation isn’t governed by speed alone like a crash is. It’s about thermal load, SOC time, and chemistry-specific behavior. LFPs are engineered for higher charge rates, and if you’re managing heat, 1C is just cruising speed — not a crash waiting to happen.

Your driving analogy doesn’t quite translate to how battery charging works — and here’s why:

1. Battery charging isn’t a linear safety-risk scale like car crashes.
• In driving, risk increases exponentially with speed because kinetic energy scales with the square of velocity (E = \frac{1}{2}mv^2).
• But with batteries, degradation doesn’t follow this pattern. It’s influenced primarily by temperature and time spent at high state-of-charge (SOC) — not current alone.
• A well-managed LFP battery can safely handle 1C charging without measurable degradation if voltage and temperature are properly controlled. That’s not comparable to speeding at 180 km/h, where you’re at risk no matter what.

2. LFP cells are designed to handle higher charge rates.
• If we extend your analogy, LFP cells are more like performance vehicles built to cruise comfortably at high speeds with full safety systems.
• Charging them at 0.2C (the equivalent of crawling at 10 km/h) when they’re rated and certified for 0.5C to 1C is unnecessarily restrictive — and can actually underutilize their design efficiency and lead to other forms of stress.

3. Slow driving always increases safety; slow charging doesn’t always increase longevity.
• Your analogy assumes that slower is always better — but in battery systems, it’s not that simple.
• Charging slowly at 0.2C extends the time the battery spends at high SOC, which is scientifically known to contribute to long-term degradation through electrolyte breakdown and side reactions.
• So ironically, your “safer” 0.2C charge may lead to more stress, not less — especially if the system just floats at 100% for hours.

4. Battery systems have built-in protection — the equivalent of seatbelts, ABS, and collision warnings.
• LFP batteries with proper BMS include:
• Thermal sensors and cutoffs
• Current limiters
• Voltage controls
• These protections actively regulate and prevent unsafe conditions, making 0.5C to 1C charging not only safe but often optimal — unlike a human driver at 180 km/h who’s still vulnerable no matter the airbags.


Lastly, all this statement on ‘Nigerians love to do these and answer like this or that’, well I hope you kenyan and not Nigerian?

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Got a quote for blue carbon. Please tell me why you are ruling out blue carbon. Let me know if i should just run

bodeface:
I really appreciate your candid review of the batteries. Thanks so much
quote author=GloryJoyeux post=135254576]

Hi,

These batteries are not in the same category at all, just like you put a Highlander with a Lexus or Mercedes SUV.

If you want the guaranteed best, go with BSL Battery.

Second best, but not by much, is the SRNE Battery.

Those two are not in the same category as the other batteries by miles!

Now, rule out Blue carbon completely! As for Entelechy, I have never heard of that brand.

Taico, well, I personally won’t spend my money on it.

So you basically have only two options, BSL and SRNE, especially since price is not an issue. They use good cells, are rated at their actual capacity, and are very well built. In fact, so many companies use BSL Batteries. SRNE on the other hand, is overpriced for what you get, but it still delivers.

Now, people have also had complaints with all the batteries you listed above. No brand is perfect. It’s imperative that you also do your own personal research before purchasing any of it. But, please strike out blue carbon from the list.

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

This is data sheet for LF280k v3. Rated 6000 cycles at 0.5C discharge test.

Kindly stop spreading misinformation, if you are not knowledgeable on a particular subject it’s best to learn.

This thing is very simple. Is it scientifically correct, that it will likely do more than 6000 cycles if charged slower at a lower rate with less heat produced?

If not, what science s the argument that if we have two lifepo batteries that face the same conditions, we will get the same or better life cycles from the one that is charged at a higher C rate of 0.5C?

C'est finis.

Dam5reey1:


With only 650k or you will get better deal at Haisic 1.5kva + 3.6kwh lithium...

SRNE hold your 1 million tight

Do Haisic not have 3.5KWH-5KWH 24V batteries?

GloryJoyeux:


Hi,

This is data sheet for LF280k v3. Rated 6000 cycles at 0.5C discharge test.

Kindly stop spreading misinformation, if you are not knowledgeable on a particular subject it’s best to learn.

Hi, thanks for your response. Kindly post a link to the datasheet or better still highlight the information so we can all and learn. If 0.5C can deliver 6,000 cycles, then basic chemistry should tell you that less would provide more cycles. This is not misinformation, a simple search will point you to this.

While I ire your work here in educating people with valuable information, I think you should also be transparent in showing your prompt so we can . Prompting AI without being transparent is actually malicious. No offense.

Pls house, what could make inverter to over drawn current making battery to be flat within seconds.

Also who knows where I can repair the inverter, already took it to Icellpower office they said the inverter is faded out so they don't have spare part

Pls SOS

I have been banned 4 times on this thread already today, so I am trying to moderate my responses.

Here are some of the studies AI referred to, to come to its conclusion:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/338255330_Effect_of_charge_rate_on_capacity_degradation_of_LiFePO4_power_battery_at_low_temperature?utm_source=chatgpt.com

https://www.heatedbattery.com/how-can-you-extend-the-lifespan-of-your-lifepo4-battery/?utm_source=chatgpt.com

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S001346862301513X

https://www.mdpi.com/1996-1073/16/6/2786?utm_source=chatgpt.com

I find the last link really interesting, as it shows that even if you overcharge a lifepo battery at non- optimal temperatures (2 red flags), the battery State of Health of the cells is barely affected at 0.2c compared to the other rates.

Edit: I tried to attach pics of the graphs but not being allowed to[/b]

saint2ace:


What's your configuration? Parallel or Series?

Parallel. I changed it to series an 2 hours ago.

Latest test video on 3000w Easun Pure Sinewave inverter.

Price: 103,000


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IL9R254qXFA

Test was aimed at knowing how many home appliances and their watts rating that the inverter can carry before tripping off on overload protection.

Test was done using:
- 3000w 12v pure sinewave inverter
- 12.8v 100ah Powmr Lithium (LiFePO4) battery
- 12v 20a Lithium charger
- KL110F 100A battery monitor with bluetooth function to monitor watts and current pull of the appliances

Appliances tested and sequence of testing include:
Sequence 1: Maxi 10kg washing machine (400w) + Haier Thermocool 100L deep freezer (80w) + LG Smart Compressor Refrigerator (85w) + Playstation 3 (100w) + Hisense 55" smart TV (130w) + Panasonic toasting machine (760w). Total appliance pull was between 1,200w - 1400w, and inverter didnt trip off. But the overload light came on as the load got close to 1400w

Sequence 2: Maxi 10kg washing machine (400w) + Haier Thermocool 100L deep freezer (80w) + LG Smart Compressor Refrigerator (85w) + Royal blender (400w). Total appliance pull was between 550w - 680w. Inverter didnt trip off and overload light didn't come on

Sequence 3: Binatone pressing iron (1200w). Appliance pull was 1,394w. Inverter didnt trip off. But the overload light came on

Sequence 4: Dual-face inductive cooker. Small face (1410w). Inverter didnt trip off. But the overload light came on. Big face (1596w). Inverter tripped off on overload