NewStats: 3,263,600 , 8,180,707 topics. Date: Friday, 06 June 2025 at 06:20 PM 3j4j1x

Good morning house.
Pls I need the idea of cost to install:
2 batteries (200ah each) 1200watts (do I go for 200×6 or 150×
Will 60a controller be ok

This is what I propose:
s 1200 watts
Controller 60a
Inverter 2.5kw
Battery 400ah

Cost of switches, changeover, cables etc should be factored in please. Thanks

Thanks

Iinnov8:


Lol...I included a caveat. Read my post again.

No now. Remove the review, it's misleading.

toyeoye:


No now. Remove the review, it's misleading.

What is misleading in the review?

60A Powmr MPPT Solar Charge Controller (HHJ-60A model)

Price: 56,000 firm.

60A Powmr MPPT Solar Charge Controller (POW-M60 PRO model)

Price: 64,000 firm.

Iinnov8:
60A Powmr MPPT Solar Charge Controller (HHJ-60A model)

Price: 56,000 firm.

60A Powmr MPPT Solar Charge Controller (POW-M60 PRO model)

Price: 64,000 firm.

Does it lithium battery charging sir.?

EduTechTainMent:


Does it lithium battery charging sir.?

Yes bro

Bro, this Must, mine when charging with Nepa the fan stays on for ever, is it normal for MUST products or is it faulty.

justcallmenuel:
Go solar today… Call/WhatsApp me on 08168986461

Hello house, good evening.

So I have a setup of 3 pieces of 250w s on a 1.5kva inverter and 2 batteries, but it doesn't charge fast enough with the s, I figured that it needed more s and someone is offering me a brand new 520 wats at a good price, however, I refused buying cos I read that ing s of different wattage together is not a good idea, however, I went ahead to ask my installer if the s can work together and to my shock, he says they will work fine. I am sceptical about it and don't trust his judgment on this one, so I decided to ask the professionals in the house, what are the pros and cons of ing s of different wattage with such wide margin?

Cc - Valto brightk Iinnov8
dacool1
mctfopt and anyone that cares to help. Thank you.

Cutezt:
Hello house, good evening.

So I have a setup of 3 pieces of 250w s on a 1.5kva inverter and 2 batteries, but it doesn't charge fast enough with the s, I figured that it needed more s and someone is offering me a brand new 520 wats at a good price, however, I refused buying cos I read that ing s of different wattage together is not a good idea, however, I went ahead to ask my installer if the s can work together and to my shock, he says they will work fine. I am sceptical about it and don't trust his judgment on this one, so I decided to ask the professionals in the house, what are the pros and cons of ing s of different wattage with such wide margin?

Cc - Valto brightk Iinnov8
dacool1
mctfopt and anyone that cares to help. Thank you.

You need to provide more information:

What are the models, type and sizes of the batteries? What is the brand of the solar s? And what is the purchase source of the solar s? This will help us know whether it is likely to be of true capacity as most solar panes are usually of lower capacity compared to what it is d as

Also, what is the configuration of the solar connection and what kind of solar charge controller are you using?

Cutezt:
Hello house, good evening.

So I have a setup of 3 pieces of 250w s on a 1.5kva inverter and 2 batteries, but it doesn't charge fast enough with the s, I figured that it needed more s and someone is offering me a brand new 520 wats at a good price, however, I refused buying cos I read that ing s of different wattage together is not a good idea, however, I went ahead to ask my installer if the s can work together and to my shock, he says they will work fine. I am sceptical about it and don't trust his judgment on this one, so I decided to ask the professionals in the house, what are the pros and cons of ing s of different wattage with such wide margin?

Cc - Valto brightk Iinnov8
dacool1
mctfopt and anyone that cares to help. Thank you.

Provide us with more information
What's the voltage of the previously installed s and the new one
What kind of charge controller do you currently use. Give us the specs

Hello house, please can i two 150watts pannel to existing 300w pannel if i cinnected it series?

odimbannamdi:


You need to provide more information:

What are the models, type and sizes of the batteries? What is the brand of the solar s? And what is the purchase source of the solar s? This will help us know whether it is likely to be of true capacity as most solar panes are usually of lower capacity compared to what it is d as

Also, what is the configuration of the solar connection and what kind of solar charge controller are you using?

The s I want to buy is the Felicity solar 540w Mono crystalline Half Cell kit 540watts, maximum power voltage 41.62V, mpc 12.98, opc 49.55

The s I have currently installed are 250-watts- [24v] Monocrystalline Solar s
Output Power 250w
Length (mm)1210Width (mm)808
Warranty2 YearsSupplied
Cable0.8mShort
Circuit Current8.67A
Open Circuit Voltage24/48V
Weight (kg)12Height (mm)35Output
System Voltage24VDC
ConstructionMonocrystalline
Maximum Power Voltage18.5V

The batteries are 2 luminous batteries, connected safepower 1.5kva inverter. I really don't know he configured the s but he said we will buy a higher CC, the one I currently have is 40a, I will attach the image spec below

Valto brightk Iinnov8
dacool1
mctfopt

Cutezt:



The s I want to buy is the Felicity solar 540w Mono crystalline Half Cell kit 540watts, maximum power voltage 41.62V, mpc 12.98, opc 49.55

The s I have currently installed are 250-watts- [24v] Monocrystalline Solar s
Output Power 250w
Length (mm)1210Width (mm)808
Warranty2 YearsSupplied
Cable0.8mShort
Circuit Current8.67A
Open Circuit Voltage24/48V
Weight (kg)12Height (mm)35Output
System Voltage24VDC
ConstructionMonocrystalline
Maximum Power Voltage18.5V

The batteries are 2 luminous batteries, connected safepower 1.5kva inverter. I really don't know he configured the s but he said we will buy a higher CC, the one I currently have is 40a, I will attach the image spec below

Valto brightk Iinnov8
dacool1
mctfopt

You still didn't state the size and type of the batteries. The type of connection configuration of the s would also have been helpful in giving you some precise advise, so I will just make some assumptions and inference to advise you from my own experience

All other things being equal and theoretically, 1 unit of 200ah smf (sealed maintenance free) lead acid battery will need at least 600w solar s to charge optimally. This assumption becomes more significant if your batteries are tubular batteries, as tubular batteries need more intense charging.

You mentioned that you have just 3 units of 250w solar s. So, following the rule above, your cummulative solar s capacity is 450w short of charging your 2 batteries optimally

Also, if you did not get your solar s from a credible source, there is a very high chance that what you have is a 150w (or even less) s pasted with a 250w sticker.

Again, the configuration with which your solar s are connected plays a significant role in harvesting sunlight optimally for their true capacity. For that size, anything short of a 3-Series connection will be sub-optimal

Finally, even though the full picture is not in view, I can decipher that your solar charge controller is a PWM. PWM controllers are not smart enough to harvest sunlight energy optimally. You could have gotten away with PWM if you were on one battery or had a better connection. It is best you go for MPPT solar charge controllers

Cutezt:



The s I want to buy is the Felicity solar 540w Mono crystalline Half Cell kit 540watts, maximum power voltage 41.62V, mpc 12.98, opc 49.55

The s I have currently installed are 250-watts- [24v] Monocrystalline Solar s
Output Power 250w
Length (mm)1210Width (mm)808
Warranty2 YearsSupplied
Cable0.8mShort
Circuit Current8.67A
Open Circuit Voltage24/48V
Weight (kg)12Height (mm)35Output
System Voltage24VDC
ConstructionMonocrystalline
Maximum Power Voltage18.5V

The batteries are 2 luminous batteries, connected safepower 1.5kva inverter. I really don't know he configured the s but he said we will buy a higher CC, the one I currently have is 40a, I will attach the image spec below

Valto brightk Iinnov8
dacool1
mctfopt

I don't think this will work. The voltage of the s do not match except you will be willing to buy another charge controller.

Sorry my response is coming a bit late, was actually on transit.

Squid actually still makes top 3 of top 10 best Cache and Proxy Servers till date. However, caching also has some drawbacks. Caching can introduce inconsistency, as the cached data may not reflect the latest changes or updates on the server. Caching can also introduce complexity, as the web application needs to manage the cache expiration, validation, and invalidation policies. One of the reasons that has slowed down the use of Cache servers in a today's internet surfing is the dynamism of data update. With the exponential rise in the use of Social Media Updates, Ads, ChatGPT, SSL enforcement, etc, it has become so important for a web server to serve current or most recent data rather than a stale data.

That being said, NGINX is one of most popular open source reverse proxy servers for Linux. It's lightweight, fast, and offers a range of features such as load balancing, HTTP caching, SSL/TLS encryption, and more. NGINX is widely used by web developers and is particularly useful for serving static content, handling SSL certificates, and serving as a reverse proxy for HTTP/HTTPS traffic. NGINX is fast and scalable, making it ideal for high-traffic websites. It's also easy to configure and has excellent documentation. The only negative thing about NGINX is that it does not offer a built-in GUI interface, which may make it difficult for some s to manage.

There exist several other Cache and Proxy Servers eg:, Apache HTTP Server, HAProxy, Varnish, Traefik, Pound, Caddy, Privoxy, SwiperProxy, Tinyproxy, Skipper, Varnish Cache, Nuster, Polipo, etc.

Whichever choice you make from the list above, There are some options that you must consider a must have for your Cache Server which includes but not limited to:

Purge cache: this allows you to refresh cached files. Some providers only allow entire cache storage refreshing. Some CDN providers also limit the number of purges allowed over a predetermined period. The effectiveness of a purging request is determined by the time it takes to propagate through a network.

Never/always cache: this control allows you to manually override cache headers and tagging files that are always served from cache or those that have never been served. This control is useful in cache management, especially when used with bulk management options that allow the applications of these directives to file groups e.g., all JPG files in images/templates/folder.

Period cache: this is a refinement of the always cache control. It allows you to create a specified period when the object is to be served from the cache before refreshing. Cache for period can be accessed from the CDN GUI for easy management of specific files. This is a useful option when used for bulk file management, e.g., all JS files cached for at least five days. and the list goes on.

In conclusion, choosing right cache and proxy server for your environment depends on your specific needs and requirements. All of servers listed above offer unique features and capabilities that can be tailored to meet your specific needs. Whether you're looking for a lightweight server for a small website or a high-performance server for a large web application, there is always an open-source cache and reverse proxy server for Linux or other environments that will meet your needs.

ojesymsym:
There used to be some methods achieved with Squid back in the day. The idea was for a local server to locally cache regularly access info on the internet so that when accessed once, all other requests for that info will first check if it is available locally before going to access it online. Is there a better way to achieve this nowadays?

brightk:
i think mikrotik does it better.. back in the days we made use of a spare pc n referred it to as cache. We installed some spare hdd n installed mikrotik x86 on the boot drives leaving the other bigger drives to act as the proxy cache. I believe things have grown abovecthis stage. Maybe you can check on the mokrotik product catalogue to see which products fit your needs

Mikrotik may not be as reliable in high-traffic environments or may not be well-suited for large-scale network deployments. Mikrotik has limited tweaks and flexibility in of traffic manipulations.

I didn't bother myself to make my Mikrotik box a Cache and Proxy Server because it's handling lots of things already, going from ROUTING, DH, FIREWALL, MULTI-WAN, etc. each time I tried to implement a proxy server with this same box, I always notice a slight difference in performance. So I intend to deploy a second box to handle the Proxying part of my traffic and maybe Hotspot Server for my staff and guests.

I have to mention that Mikrotik DNS always crash because of the big static list which leads to a R/W issues. Back in the days when the x86 versions was the best option for larger network environments, R/W speed was a problem, as year went by, we had SSDs which performed better but you can't compare the performance of Mikrotik to the likes of Squid and NGINX running on it's own linux machine and solely for the purpose of Caching and Proxying internet traffic. Even though we now have more robust Mikrotik ROS Boxes and Hardwares with sophisticated configurations, Mikrotik still haven't made it to the Top 10 Cache and Proxy Server lists till date.

odimbannamdi:


You still didn't state the size and type of the batteries. The type of connection configuration of the s would also have been helpful in giving you some precise advise, so I will just make some assumptions and inference to advise you from my own experience

All other things being equal and theoretically, 1 unit of 200ah smf (sealed maintenance free) lead acid battery will need at least 600w solar s to charge optimally. This assumption becomes more significant if your batteries are tubular batteries, as tubular batteries need more intense charging.

You mentioned that you have just 3 units of 250w solar s. So, following the rule above, your cummulative solar s capacity is 450w short of charging your 2 batteries optimally

Also, if you did not get your solar s from a credible source, there is a very high chance that what you have is a 150w (or even less) s pasted with a 250w sticker.

Again, the configuration with which your solar s are connected plays a significant role in harvesting sunlight optimally for their true capacity. For that size, anything short of a 3-Series connection will be sub-optimal

Finally, even though the full picture is not in view, I can decipher that your solar charge controller is a PWM. PWM controllers are not smart enough to harvest sunlight energy optimally. You could have gotten away with PWM if you were on one battery or had a better connection. It is best you go for MPPT solar charge controllers

Sorry i skipped that part, My batteries are 2 luminous Tubular batteries, 220ah. and i really did not buy the equipment myself, the installer did everything based on my budget at that time but the pannels are able to get me through the day till the next day before it goes low if there is not enough sunlight. Yes, My charge controller is PWM and i dont mind buying the MPPT if the pannels will work.

dacool1:


I don't think this will work. The voltage of the s do not match except you will be willing to buy another charge controller.

If it will work, i will look at the more economical option, if buying 250w pannels to match the setup in place already or buying the 540w and a new charge controller.

Cutezt:



Sorry i skipped that part, My batteries are 2 luminous Tubular batteries, 220ah. and i really did not buy the equipment myself, the installer did everything based on my budget at that time but the pannels are able to get me through the day till the next day before it goes low if there is not enough sunlight. Yes, My charge controller is PWM and i dont mind buying the MPPT if the pannels will work.




If it will work, i will look at the more economical option, if buying 250w pannels to match the setup in place already or buying the 540w and a new charge controller.

Throw more light on the emboldened. But based on your explanation so far, it will be cheaper and more cost-effective for you to switch to MPPT first and observe for improvements before you invest more into solar s

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odimbannamdi:


Throw more light on the emboldened. But based on your explanation so far, it will be cheaper and more cost-effective for you to switch to MPPT first and observe for improvements before you invest more into solar s

What i meant is that if the batteries are charged, even if it is halfway, i can use it for the entire day, i usually turn it off at night as i dont need light for anything as i sleep, but that's usually very late, maybe 1 or 2am. It takes me from the previous day till the next day, if there is not enough sunlight on that day, it goes to around 23v and i usually turn it off that time. so in summary, if charged anywhere around 25% with Light, then it takes me around 20 hours with 4-5 hours of sunlight.

Cutezt:


What i meant is that if the batteries are charged, even if it is halfway, i can use it for the entire day, i usually turn it off at night as i dont need light for anything as i sleep, but that's usually very late, maybe 1 or 2am. It takes me from the previous day till the next day, if there is not enough sunlight on that day, it goes to around 23v and i usually turn it off that time. so in summary, if charged anywhere around 25% with Light, then it takes me around 20 hours with 4-5 hours of sunlight.

Not just the wattage but voltage should match, also once you add more s you will exceed your charge controller max AMPs. I think you will need to get another charge controller

This is what I would recommend, get the 520watts with a separate charge controller. Note since your system is 24v and your voltage is 41 you will need a mppt charger else you will lose lots of power generated.

Even if you get two more 250w s you will need another charge controller.

jonescosmos:



Mikrotik may not be as reliable in high-traffic environments or may not be well-suited for large-scale network deployments. Mikrotik has limited tweaks and flexibility in of traffic manipulations.

I didn't bother myself to make my Mikrotik box a Cache and Proxy Server because it's handling lots of things already, going from ROUTING, DH, FIREWALL, MULTI-WAN, etc. each time I tried to implement a proxy server with this same box, I always notice a slight difference in performance. So I intend to deploy a second box to handle the Proxying part of my traffic and maybe Hotspot Server for my staff and guests.

I have to mention that Mikrotik DNS always crash because of the big static list which leads to a R/W issues. Back in the days when the x86 versions was the best option for larger network environments, R/W speed was a problem, as year went by, we had SSDs which performed better but you can't compare the performance of Mikrotik to the likes of Squid and NGINX running on it's own linux machine and solely for the purpose of Caching and Proxying internet traffic. Even though we now have more robust Mikrotik ROS Boxes and Hardwares with sophisticated configurations, Mikrotik still haven't made to the Top 10 Cache and Proxy Server lists till date.

u just brought memories of squid... anyways i havent used it in a long time... internet speeds have improved over time and still improving... but i think i will make out time for NGNIX and see its potentials...... na where de bring money man de face 4 nigeria oo

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3.2v 100AH lifepo4 prismatic available
location: Abuja

call/whatsapp 09068448005

grade "A prismatic with full capacity 100AH 3.2v prismatic cells in stock
call/whatsapp 09068448005

ameh99:
grade "A prismatic with full capacity 100AH 3.2v prismatic cells in stock
call/whatsapp 09068448005

Price?

brightk:
u just brought memories of squid... anyways i havent used it in a long time... internet speeds have improved over time and still improving... but i think i will make out time for NGNIX and see its potentials...... na where de bring money man de face 4 nigeria oo

When the guy you quoted went full throttle, I was almost tempted to disclose that I once into networking. Until I discovered that true money does not lie in that part of IT and changed gears and thank God I did.

I know another guy who has become a billionaire from the switch. Hopefully, I will get there someday.

Put price. It not always easy to b adding just because person ask for price. If ur price is fair, the item will market itself.

ameh99:
3.2v 100AH lifepo4 prismatic available
location: Abuja

call/whatsapp 09068448005

Cutezt:


What i meant is that if the batteries are charged, even if it is halfway, i can use it for the entire day, i usually turn it off at night as i dont need light for anything as i sleep, but that's usually very late, maybe 1 or 2am. It takes me from the previous day till the next day, if there is not enough sunlight on that day, it goes to around 23v and i usually turn it off that time. so in summary, if charged anywhere around 25% with Light, then it takes me around 20 hours with 4-5 hours of sunlight.

Well, if your batteries always get around 25% of charge everyday, even on days with significant sunlight, it isn't good. Even normal lead acid batteries will suffer in that condition, not to talk of tubular batteries that even require periodic equalising charging. Your load is probably very small, plus you put it off at night, that is why it looks like they are still performing. Undercharging kills batteries over time due to sulphation. You should do something fast.

In my earlier post, I highlighted possible causes of your undercharging situation, and the easiest resolution option you can easily execute with your existing connection and possibly get immediate respite is changing your PWM controller to MPPT.

Go that route first and observe whether the charging situation improves (hopefully it does), before you consider the option of increasing your solar array

Cutezt:


What i meant is that if the batteries are charged, even if it is halfway, i can use it for the entire day, i usually turn it off at night as i dont need light for anything as i sleep, but that's usually very late, maybe 1 or 2am. It takes me from the previous day till the next day, if there is not enough sunlight on that day, it goes to around 23v and i usually turn it off that time. so in summary, if charged anywhere around 25% with Light, then it takes me around 20 hours with 4-5 hours of sunlight.

I'm just wondering how long you'll continue to turn off your system late at night and what will happen the day you'll sleep off.
Adding pv to get your battery to daily float is good but that will not solve this problem.
I suggest you work on your night loads and allow the system to run by itself....
When I was using tubular batteries in off-grid system, I managed loads and made sure my consumption at night doesn't go beyond 30% especially in raining seasons and it was very easy for me to refill my battery before evening the following day.
I used them for two years and sold out, I was babysitting the batteries as I was hoping to use them for the next 5 years.
Today with lifepo4 battery, I'm still waking up the following day with 30% energy consumption, even with my 1hp AC running all through the night and before 12 noon, my battery is fully charged.

Topmost11:
Good morning house.
Pls I need the idea of cost to install:
2 batteries (200ah each) 1200watts (do I go for 200×6 or 150×
Will 60a controller be ok

This is what I propose:
s 1200 watts
Controller 60a
Inverter 2.5kw
Battery 400ah

Cost of switches, changeover, cables etc should be factored in please. Thanks

Thanks

Controller 60A 23,000 pwm
60A mppt 110k Felicity
Inverter 2.5kva 190k
Battery
200Ah 140k block
220Ah 175k tubular
36k brand new

Jefferyzz:
Put price. It not always easy to b adding just because person ask for price. If ur price is fair, the item will market itself.

I tire ooo