NewStats: 3,264,164 , 8,182,828 topics. Date: Monday, 09 June 2025 at 11:29 PM 2d4767

I have a small 1kva inverter system connected to the mains directly, i try as much as possible to switch off all heavy loads before switching it on. However had an episode where i mistakenly left an heavy load on and the inverter tripped off and took hours before it turned back on. Pls what device can i connect to the output to prevent this overload happening again?

AC Breaker should do it.

Drgreatone:
I have a small 1kva inverter system connected to the mains directly, i try as much as possible to switch off all heavy loads before switching it on. However had an episode where i mistakenly left an heavy load on and the inverter tripped off and took hours before it turned back on. Pls what device can i connect to the output to prevent this overload happening again?

What happens if solar s watts exceed the MPPT charge controller, where voltage and current are okay?

Get a good electrician to help you partition your load on the distribution box.

Drgreatone:
I have a small 1kva inverter system connected to the mains directly, i try as much as possible to switch off all heavy loads before switching it on. However had an episode where i mistakenly left an heavy load on and the inverter tripped off and took hours before it turned back on. Pls what device can i connect to the output to prevent this overload happening again?

Hello House please I need your input, I have my setup up as follows

60A felicity charge controller with 145vdc
Afriipower inverter 2500VA
4 Hausstorm Tubular batteries of 12v x220Ah( Flood LA)
9 Canadian solar s 300w (32.2V, 9.31A)(connected in parallel)
10mm wire.

Now my concern is that my max input voltage is 72v, max charging current 35A and the max Wat is about 960w I have ever seen on the charge controller. Shouldn't the wattage be more than that?. Will this charge my batteries well considering that I run the solar setup for 22 hrs and run my gen for 2hrs a day before I go to bed.

how can I completely eliminate the gen running considering the current reality.

Its a rented apartment plus doin this would mean adding another mini distribution board which I'm trying to avoid.

Edrizz:
Get a good electrician to help you partition your load on the distribution box.

More reason why I said u should get a good electrician, u ain't gonna need any mini board bro, awesomely easier if you are currently having a 3 phase DB

Drgreatone:
Its a rented apartment plus doin this would mean adding another mini distribution board which I'm trying to avoid.

We build lithium battery packs of all sizes
Ranging from;
*12v 50AH
*12v 100AH
*12v 200AH
*24v 50AH
*24V 100AH
*24v 200AH
All our pack come with 2yrs warranty

We also deal on electric bicycle kits...


Call/whatsapp 09068448005
1

**

Is there a simpler alternative that doesnt involve getting an electrician. Planning a mini off grid status so avoiding doin anything that wud need undoing when I finally expand or decide to move out.

Edrizz:
More reason why I said u should get a good electrician, u ain't gonna need any mini board bro, awesomely easier if you are currently having a 3 phase DB

Drgreatone:
I have a small 1kva inverter system connected to the mains directly, i try as much as possible to switch off all heavy loads before switching it on. However had an episode where i mistakenly left an heavy load on and the inverter tripped off and took hours before it turned back on. Pls what device can i connect to the output to prevent this overload happening again?

@Zeestone99, he sell device for that purpose.

Bgee77:
What happens if solar s watts exceed the MPPT charge controller, where voltage and current are okay?

The CC will clamp the power to it Max wattage capacity, provided you don't exceed the VOC.

You may have to state your intended pv array and the CC for better advice.

Papamirah:
Hello House please I need your input, I have my setup up as follows

60A felicity charge controller with 145vdc
Afriipower inverter 2500VA
4 Hausstorm Tubular batteries of 12v x220Ah( Flood LA)
9 Canadian solar s 300w (32.2V, 9.31A)(connected in parallel)
10mm wire.

Now my concern is that my max input voltage is 72v, max charging current 35A and the max Wat is about 960w I have ever seen on the charge controller. Shouldn't the wattage be more than that?. Will this charge my batteries well considering that I run the solar setup for 22 hrs and run my gen for 2hrs a day before I go to bed.

how can I completely eliminate the gen running considering the current reality.

Is your inverter 24v or 48v?

Are you s connected on 3s3p?

the system is 24v and yes 3S3P

TechGeek777:


Is your inverter 24v or 48v?

Are you s connected on 3s3p?

Valto:
a 24v 3.5kva hybrid inverter, 6pcs of 400w jinko and 24v 230ah/200ah lifepo4 lithium battery can serve..

Thanks for the input... Much appreciated

But will a good brand of hybrid inverter with durability.

Drgreatone:
I have a small 1kva inverter system connected to the mains directly, i try as much as possible to switch off all heavy loads before switching it on. However had an episode where i mistakenly left an heavy load on and the inverter tripped off and took hours before it turned back on. Pls what device can i connect to the output to prevent this overload happening again?

In addition to installing a breaker, also consider isolating those heavy loads from the inverter line. But then, a good inverter should have an overload protection feature that kicks into effect if the max load rating is sured and simply switching off and switching it back on should resolve it.

Drgreatone:
Its a rented apartment plus doin this would mean adding another mini distribution board which I'm trying to avoid.

You don't need another distribution box. Where is your location? I know an electrician that specializes in this.

Is Felicity charge controller 120A 195V and 12pcs of 540w Felicity solar s

Papamirah:
the system is 24v and yes 3S3P

So many things may be wrong here.

First your Felicity 60A CC can only give 1650w @ 24v and your battery bank is 24v 440Ah.

With 24v system, you can't efficiently charge those batteries if you discharge them too much.

Secondly, your so called 300w Canadian s could be Alaba dubious categories of s, hence they are not able to charge your battery efficiently.

If you derate the batteries to 180Ah and discharge based on 30%, your current s might help to charge them well.

Thirdly, you didn't state you daytime and night consumption.

Verdict, you may have to get 48v inverter to retain your 60 CC, and reconfigure you batteries to match 48v system.

OR

Get 120A CC to match the s for your 24v system.

Look into the orientation of your s if they're actually real Canadian.

If this is not a DIY setup, I suggest you call your installer.

Day time : about 600W (9am-3pm)
Evening : about 200W ( 3pm-10pm)
Night: about 100w (10pm-9am)

TechGeek777:


So many things may be wrong here.

First your Felicity 60A CC can only give 1650w @ 24v and your battery bank is 24v 440Ah.

With 24v system, you can't efficiently charge those batteries if you discharge them too much.

Secondly, your so called 300w Canadian s could be Alaba dubious categories of s, hence they are not able to charge your battery efficiently.

If you derate the batteries to 180Ah and discharge based on 30%, your current s might help to charge them well.

Thirdly, you didn't state you daytime and night consumption.

Verdict, you may have to get 48v inverter to retain your 60 CC, and reconfigure you batteries to match 48v system.

OR

Get 120A CC to match the s for your 24v system.

Look into the orientation of your s if they're actually real Canadian.

If this is not a DIY setup, I suggest you call your installer.

funshyboi:
Hello guys, please which of this wires should I connect to each other ? Is it blue with blue or otherwise.

Don’t mind my question I’m Just a DIY person.

My second question is my battery charger which is tagged “A” in the picture ed with the following rating
INPUT:AC100V-240V~2.0A
MAX 47-63Hz,
OUTPUT:14.6V, 5.0A
is faulty.

I got a laptop charger which is tagged “B” in the picture ed with following rating
INPUT:AC100V-240V~1.6A
MAX 50-60Hz,
OUTPUT:18.5V, 3.5A

Will it charge the battery efficienciently

Thank you for your response

this is my football field. That Sako charger is 12v LifePo4 blue battery charger and it charges battery to 14.6 which is ideal for LifePo4 battery. Using laptop charger may damage the battery especially if the BMS is not a strong one. Laptop charger voltage is 18.5v to 19v which is totally wrong for a 12v battery.

funshyboi:
Hello guys, please which of this wires should I connect to each other ? Is it blue with blue or otherwise.

Don’t mind my question I’m Just a DIY person.

My second question is my battery charger which is tagged “A” in the picture ed with the following rating
INPUT:AC100V-240V~2.0A
MAX 47-63Hz,
OUTPUT:14.6V, 5.0A
is faulty.

I got a laptop charger which is tagged “B” in the picture ed with following rating
INPUT:AC100V-240V~1.6A
MAX 50-60Hz,
OUTPUT:18.5V, 3.5A

Will it charge the battery efficienciently

Thank you for your response

connect the brown to the white of the other wire and the blur to the naked wire around the white wire. Then that small blue should not be connected to any wire. For proper explanation chat me 08034694579

tetralogyfallot:
this is my football field. That Sako charger is 12v LifePo4 blue battery charger and it charges battery to 14.6 which is ideal for LifePo4 battery. Using laptop charger may damage the battery especially if the BMS is not a strong one. Laptop charger voltage is 18.5v to 19v which is totally wrong for a 12v battery.

Thank you very much, you really sabi. It’s actually LiFePO4 battery charger. I’ve been looking for where to get another one since the one I’m using got spoilt a while ago

Bragging Time

The last few days have been very cloudy and raining in Ibadan. So, my solar yield has been poor.

This morning I discovered that I have taken 520AH from my lithium battery bank which is about 80% of my total.

I sat down to do the calculation. 520AH at 48V is like draining 12 200AH 12V lead acid batteries to zero. However, given a 50% DoD, already above what is recommended for Lead Acid batteries, I would have needed a bank of 24 200AH 12v batteries.

And even then my system would have shut down because my pumping machine drawing about 2KW and my water heater drawing about 1.5KW still came on at 4:00AM and 5:00AM respectively. Pump for 25 minutes and heater for 90 minutes. Voltage would have gone down low enough to trip the inverter.

If you are not using lithium batteries, you can not appreciate its resilience.

TechGeek777:


So many things may be wrong here.

First your Felicity 60A CC can only give 1650w @ 24v and your battery bank is 24v 440Ah.

With 24v system, you can't efficiently charge those batteries if you discharge them too much.

Secondly, your so called 300w Canadian s could be Alaba dubious categories of s, hence they are not able to charge your battery efficiently.

If you derate the batteries to 180Ah and discharge based on 30%, your current s might help to charge them well.

Thirdly, you didn't state you daytime and night consumption.

Verdict, you may have to get 48v inverter to retain your 60 CC, and reconfigure you batteries to match 48v system.

OR

Get 120A CC to match the s for your 24v system.

Look into the orientation of your s if they're actually real Canadian.

If this is not a DIY setup, I suggest you call your installer.

If they are brand new, it's 99% fake canadian solar s.

TechGeek777:


The CC will clamp the power to it Max wattage capacity, provided you don't exceed the VOC.

You may have to state your intended pv array and the CC for better advice.

3s4p. 540w . CC 120A Felicity

funshyboi:


Thank you very much, you really sabi. It’s actually LiFePO4 battery charger. I’ve been looking for where to get another one since the one I’m using got spoilt a while ago

Go look thoroughly for another charger or get the spoilt one repaired. But you ought to know that the default charger has a breaker-circuit that stops the supply of current once the battery has been charged fully( aka the indicator turns green from red). So why using something else not having such safety features? Dont burn your house.

adrusa:
Bragging Time

The last few days have been very cloudy and raining in Ibadan. So, my solar yield has been poor.

This morning I discovered that I have taken 520AH from my lithium battery bank which is about 80% of my total.

I sat down to do the calculation. 520AH at 48V is like draining 12 200AH 12V lead acid batteries to zero. However, given a 50% DoD, already above what is recommended for Lead Acid batteries, I would have needed a bank of 24 200AH 12v batteries.

And even then my system would have shut down because my pumping machine drawing about 2KW and my water heater drawing about 1.5KW still came on at 4:00AM and 5:00AM respectively. Pump for 25 minutes and heater for 90 minutes. Voltage would have gone down low enough to trip the inverter.

If you are not using lithium batteries, you can not appreciate its resilience.

If 520ah is roughly equal to 80% then your battery bank capacity is less than 1000Wh. How does it compare to 12 units of 12v/200ah ~= 29KWh bank though?

Nice one... but check the bolded again. A typical 30L water heater takes about 15 to 20 minutes to reach the setpoint.

adrusa:
And even then my system would have shut down because my pumping machine drawing about 2KW and my water heater drawing about 1.5KW still came on at 4:00AM and 5:00AM respectively. Pump for 25 minutes and heater for 90 minutes. Voltage would have gone down low enough to trip the inverter.

If you are not using lithium batteries, you can not appreciate its resilience.

mctfopt:


Bought around 200m at ₦2500/m in April and I was pissed off that it was expensive. Just 3 months down the line we rocking almost ₦3000 na wa.

Me too.

In February was expecting it would be under a 1000. In July shocked it is going to 3,000.

Next plan of action is to arrange to buy a whole roll since I still plan to upgrade my system lest it would cost 5,000 then.

adrusa:
Bragging Time

The last few days have been very cloudy and raining in Ibadan. So, my solar yield has been poor.

This morning I discovered that I have taken 520AH from my lithium battery bank which is about 80% of my total.

I sat down to do the calculation. 520AH at 48V is like draining 12 200AH 12V lead acid batteries to zero. However, given a 50% DoD, already above what is recommended for Lead Acid batteries, I would have needed a bank of 24 200AH 12v batteries.

And even then my system would have shut down because my pumping machine drawing about 2KW and my water heater drawing about 1.5KW still came on at 4:00AM and 5:00AM respectively. Pump for 25 minutes and heater for 90 minutes. Voltage would have gone down low enough to trip the inverter.

If you are not using lithium batteries, you can not appreciate its resilience.

How much did you get the lithium battery

Papamirah:
Day time : about 600W (9am-3pm)
Evening : about 200W ( 3pm-10pm)
Night: about 100w (10pm-9am)

If the watts stated here is per hour, the s are definitely fake.

If it's comulative, the batteries should be checked.

In all your installer.

Trippledots:


If 520ah is roughly equal to 80% then your battery bank capacity is less than 1000Wh. How does it compare to 12 units of 12v/200ah ~= 29KWh bank though?

520amp x 48v = 24kwh