NewStats: 3,264,152 , 8,182,797 topics. Date: Monday, 09 June 2025 at 09:52 PM 4a5y4g

Abbeyb1ack:
Area is well secure....naso I reach site see say all electrical wire Don miss for roof ...camouflage was left on the socket

wow hope not much... Sorry for your loss

We are still on the wiring of this multi dwelling units ...

Godisgreatest1:


Good evening Sir, was your house built on DPC or DPM?, Is the height of the floor of the surrounding compound same level, lower or higher than your building?

Greetings Sir, thank you for your input.

I just checked today and the height of the surrounding floor is higher than the DPC. I noticed quality of the DPC material was light too.

Ps: I bought the house and I didn't build from scratch. I only did the finishing

FEGEITOK:


The second picture is of an interior wall whose other side is an exterior wall. Right?

The first picture is clearly an interior wall but I cannot determine what is on the other side. A bathroom maybe? Please clarify.

Sorry that you are facing the consequences of building practices that are more concerned with aesthetics than building longevity and the health and safety of residents.

Last question is this apartment rented or owned? This question will determine what to recommend as not everyone is inclined to repair a house for a landlord or for the next tenant even if their health and safety is at stake.

Thank you for your input.

Yes, the picture attached is an interior wall. The exterior is covered with tyrolene.

Actually I bought the building as carcass and did the finishing. At the point of buying, I didn't notice any form of dampness maybe because it was during the dry season, earlier this year.

Valuepaints20:


first, you need to invite your plumber to check if there is any pipe leaking.

I have dug down the ground and not pipe ed through the area.

abdulwastecx:


Dampness is a big problem with most Nigerian homes.

The primary case of dampness in buildings is capillary action. This is a phenomenon where water around the wall areas rises through the wall through this action.

The primary way to prevent this is to institute a dampness program during construction. If the site has a high water table, properly drain the foundation, use moisture barriers on all walls, and create a damp-proof membrane on the ground floor before the oversite concretes and provide a french drain to take accumulated rainwater from the building perimeters.

For this case, you will need to constantly remove water from the building perimeter using a french drain. Then peel the plastering up to around a meter high from the foot of the building, and replaster this portion of the building with a cement-riched plaster (1:4, one bag of cement with 6 parts plaster sand and 2 parts sand) also add a water sealant cement to the mix. If you can also paint the external wall with water sealant paint it will also help

Thank you for your suggestions. I did replastered the down part and I havent experienced it since I did. But the damp has risen above the replastered area.

I noticed the plaster is already weak too, I don't know if its because of the dampness or they managed materials for plastering.

Slimszy:


Greetings Sir, thank you for your input.

I just checked today and the height of the surrounding floor is higher than the DPC. I noticed quality of the DPC material was light too.

Ps: I bought the house and I didn't build from scratch. I only did the finishing

"Your foundation is low and submerged in moist soil"...

Good afternoon Sir, please the surrounding floor shouldn't be higher than the DPC except you used an effective sealant/water resistant cement.

You can dig into the ground, 'probably' a feet or more, to where the t between the floor and dpc meet all around the main building, chiesel through the external wall and apply the mix. You also have to replaster with same cement mix.

Although not necessary, but 'If' there is any possibility of reducing the height of the external floor you can consider it.

Thank you.

topsy23:


That's why we have consultants, QS and project managership the representing the client in every aspect of project execution..What I normally do is to have submittals for all the equipment to be delivered and as well sample board..

All nominated sub contractors must be under the main contractors as you said for a standard practice... Client have the right to choose sub contractors and also consultants can also recommend for client too.

Thanks for this good submission

Pls professionals, is sand gravel good for casting lintel or foundation. Ur response will be invaluable to me

Blessedsunny2:

Thanks God bless you

We av get back to engr. Akeem

Post your properties to sell or rent faster on www.propertyapp.ng for free! Thousands of Nigerians home and abroad trust this platform.

abdulwastecx:


Dampness is a big problem with most Nigerian homes.

The primary case of dampness in buildings is [b]capillary action. [/b]This is a phenomenon where water around the wall areas rises through the wall through this action.

The primary way to prevent this is to institute a dampness program during construction. If the site has a high water table, properly drain the foundation, use moisture barriers on all walls, and create a damp-proof membrane on the ground floor before the oversite concretes and provide a french drain to take accumulated rainwater from the building perimeters.

For this case, you will need to constantly remove water from the building perimeter using a french drain. Then peel the plastering up to around a meter high from the foot of the building, and replaster this portion of the building with a cement-riched plaster (1:4, one bag of cement with 6 parts plaster sand and 2 parts sand) also add a water sealant cement to the mix. If you can also paint the external wall with water sealant paint it will also help

Welldone✓
I think fegitok also posted some info regarding the bolded.

It's one big issue, that needs a permanent solution.

redgem:


Are they good for exteriors? Do they form molds with time? Are they resistant to water? Do they peel and fall off?

It's mainly for exterior, The bolded : Yes.
Although have seen few people use it for interior.

Aventures:
In addition, in a process whereby clients wants to choose his sub contractors for stuff like POP, Electrical, Tiling, Smart home fittings, Aluminum should not be a problem to any contractor at all. But I will advice a synergy from planning stage. That is the client should choose his preferred sub contractors and carried them along from the beginning, review the plans together along with the designers and main contractors, draw out approved specifications for each trade and note all the sub contractors should be supervised by the main contractors at a reasonable fee. The reason behind this is to avoid blame shift, hinderances for effective execution of any aspect of sub contractors work, for example if you bring in a low voltage/smarthome contractor at a later time, executing his work may be difficult or in process he may damage some imbeeded conduits in the process of breaking wall. If such has been introduce from onset he would be invited for his input time to time to facilitate easy and perfect installation.

Main contractors should be the eye of client in this regards because the overall Glory still comes to him when the house is well and tastefully delivered.

Am with you on this but resources and funding available dictates a lot of things , don’t see how people doing kobo Kobo or budget projects will be able to achieve or do some of these things , taking Qs , consultants or even a ed civil/ structural engineer . Like someone said maybe limit this things to bungalows , but not multistory buildings . For my ring road project the main contractor recommended the guy I gave mep , for akala got tope from here but the same main contractor and architect met him and said they could work with him before we signed off , learnt from my first commercial project , was dealing with too many sub contractors and there madness . All the works done at all the site comes thru this 3 persons .My main contractor has been God sent for my kind of person . Also took a project supervisor to make things work faster

Abbeyb1ack:
Area is well secure....naso I reach site see say all electrical wire Don miss for roof ...camouflage was left on the socket

Hmmm and pop have been completed

Godisgreatest1:



"Your foundation is low and submerged in moist soil"...

Good afternoon Sir, please the surrounding floor shouldn't be higher than the DPC except you used an effective sealant/water resistant cement.

You can dig into the ground, 'probably' a feet or more, to where the t between the floor and dpc meet all around the main building, chiesel through the external wall and apply the mix. You also have to replaster with same cement mix.

Although not necessary, but 'If' there is any possibility of reducing the height of the external floor you can consider it.

Thank you.

Thank you so much for the insight and suggestions.

Few questions.

1. Can plaster and reinforce the dug area with concrete?

2. Should I plaster immediately I dig or I leave for some days or week so air can penetrate into block area and dry off a bit?

3. Should I refill back with laterite or sharp sand?

4. Can I use felting process too as a waterproof for the dug part after plaster.

I look forward to your response. Thank you Sir.

Abbeyb1ack:
Area is well secure....naso I reach site see say all electrical wire Don miss for roof ...camouflage was left on the socket

Ah, This is really sad, ogami! May Almighty God replenish your Pocket/Bank /wallet.

Sorry about this.

Slimszy:


Thank you for your suggestions. I did replastered the down part and I havent experienced it since I did. But the damp has risen above the replastered area.

I noticed the plaster is already weak too, I don't know if its because of the dampness or they managed materials for plastering.

One thing with the capillary action of water, it would simply appear above the parts sealed and it can travel quite high.

hamtabfawaz:


It's mainly for exterior, The bolded : Yes.
Although have seen few people use it for interior.

I like the look of it...considering using it for external walls when I get to that level...

Slimszy:


Thank you so much for the insight and suggestions.

Few questions.

1. Can plaster and reinforce the dug area with concrete?

2. Should I plaster immediately I dig or I leave for some days or week so air can penetrate into block area and dry off a bit?

3. Should I refill back with laterite or sharp sand?

4. Can I use felting process too as a waterproof for the dug part after plaster.

I look forward to your response. Thank you Sir.

Sir,

(1) Yes you can plaster with a 'more-of-cement' mix (more cement, less sand).

(2) I can recall we didn't fill immediately after digging, we left for some days to let the moisture dry off from the walls and the areas we dug.

(3) After making sure the 'replaster was as thick and sealed as possible, we ensured we reduced, to the most possible extent, the surface area of the wall in with the surrounding floor (because the external floor was still above the internal floor). Fill with laterite. and I improvised with broken blocks.

"keep the surrounding floor as far as possible from the wall"-my Engineer said this.

(4) Although I didn't think of that, but felting helps avoid water leakage similar to waterproof, it may be an additional effective idea.

Thank you Sir.

gbadexy:

Good morning chief engineer,
Graffitex is N16000 and it covers 6/8 sqm per drum.
The wall does not need to be screeded before application. It comes in different colors too and doesn't need painting but varnish could be applied on it to give it a shiny effect.
I've been asked severally online and offline if it could be applied on an unplastered wall and an idea just occurred to me that it would be possible if the blocks are primed with good quality paint.
This would help to make the surface of the blocks less porous, bind the loose particles and form a surface that would allow smooth application without wasting the graffitex.

Hello bro,
Thanks for your insights. Is Tyrolean different from graffitex? If yes, what are the key differences?

Thanks

Godisgreatest1:



"Your foundation is low and submerged in moist soil"...

Good afternoon Sir, please the surrounding floor shouldn't be higher than the DPC except you used an effective sealant/water resistant cement.

You can dig into the ground, 'probably' a feet or more, to where the t between the floor and dpc meet all around the main building, chiesel through the external wall and apply the mix. You also have to replaster with same cement mix.

Although not necessary, but 'If' there is any possibility of reducing the height of the external floor you can consider it.

Thank you.

It would also help to apply undercoat paint from the waterproof membrane point on the dpc upwards so that the building won't be soaking up water from the surrounding soil.

ImperialCovfefe:

Hello bro,
Thanks for your insights. Is Tyrolean different from graffitex? If yes, what are the key differences?

Thanks

Tyroline is different. Tyroline is sharp sand and cement flung with a hand machine and partially smoothened with trowel. It would need to be painted. It's still basically plaster not fully smoothened to give the effect.
Graffitex is a textured paint in plaster consistency that is applied with trowel and finished with a caking trowel to give it's effect.

Pls my oga,can sand gravel be used for casting foundation and lintel. Thanks for ur response

abdulwastecx:


But 1:2:4 will not even give you the minimum required strength for most reinforced concrete applications.

If most reinforced concrete work. I use 1:2.5:3.5 which will give characteristics of concrete compressive strength of 25N/mm2 after 28days.

Also, the water-to-cement ratio is so important. W/C of 0.5 which will translate into 1 bucket for one bag mix should be the way to go.

For example, if Mr. A uses a mix of 1:1.5:3 with too much water, 1.5buckets, and Mr. B uses a mix of 1:2.5:3.5 mixed with 1 bucket, the strength achieved by Mr. B will be better than that of Mr. A with all things equal.

In summary, quality control is as important as the volume of cement used in concrete production. Also, I experiment with mixes and carry out tests from time to time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjIhSVYY6Q4

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Slimszy:


Greetings Sir, thank you for your input.

I just checked today and the height of the surrounding floor is higher than the DPC. I noticed quality of the DPC material was light too.

Ps: I bought the house and I didn't build from scratch. I only did the finishing

Hummmm, this are the reason why buying already build houses without seeing in built from foundation always give me concern. Imagine going through this after paying millions.

joedguy:
Pls my oga,can sand gravel be used for casting foundation and lintel. Thanks for ur response

Do you have a picture of the same gravel?

What is the size of the building that you want to work on?

gbadexy:

It would also help to apply undercoat paint from the waterproof membrane point on the dpc upwards so that the building won't be soaking up water from the surrounding soil.

Very true Sir, well done.

Godisgreatest1:


Very true Sir, well done.

Thank you sir.

rmx:



Am with you on this but resources and funding available dictates a lot of things , don’t see how people doing kobo Kobo or budget projects will be able to achieve or do some of these things , taking Qs , consultants or even a ed civil/ structural engineer . Like someone said maybe limit this things to bungalows , but not multistory buildings . For my ring road project the main contractor recommended the guy I gave mep , for akala got tope from here but the same main contractor and architect met him and said they could work with him before we signed off , learnt from my first commercial project , was dealing with too many sub contractors and there madness . All the works done at all the site comes thru this 3 persons .My main contractor has been God sent for my kind of person . Also took a project supervisor to make things work faster

Sir/ma I am happy for you, for been cool with your God sent contractor. God has helped me to have various client from online and offline that we are so cool and almost like a family. I am sure with time your contractor would be like your brother and that's the beauty of integrity in this our field. But how many people can be this fortunate? That's why it is important for those intending to build to try and follow some of this process stated by pros pending the time you can get a contractor you can easily hand over your project, funds and then go to sleep being rest assured you are in a save hand.

Let's be your plug to anything cctv camera.

Slimszy:


I have dug down the ground and no pipe ed through the area.

Mix ya screeding putty with adding waterproof cement before applying on the damp surface, then let dry before applying undercoat/raincoat paint then after drying you can apply ya normal īnterior Paiñt 2 coat seal