NewStats: 3,263,886 , 8,181,759 topics. Date: Sunday, 08 June 2025 at 03:24 PM 2rd6b

OP what you are doing is simply damage control.
You didn't buy the wrong car, but your inability to sit and research things for yourself is what's causing all this unnecessary trauma.

You have internet, you can read and you can write..yet a mecho who I'm sure you are much more educated than he is, is the one guiding you in something that you can actually do by yourself.
Keep spending money buying catalytic converters thinking that spending money is what guarantees a solution. You will learn the hard way if you don't pay attention to what some experts on this forum are telling you.
You said you were going to post pictures of your engine bay, I've gone through the whole 11 pages of this thread but still didn't find it. You only posted your ABS module and a Toks catalyst (which may not solve your fuel consumption problem).

You bought 8k fuel and got 6 liters then travel 31km. Are you even sure it is 31km or 31 miles. That's another question. You're not feeding the forum with data that can be used to assist you remotely. Stop blaming your mechanic, blame your naivety first. You don't know and you don't even try to know. You only came here to complain. A lot of experts like Abbeyismo have rendered a helping hand but you didn't feed him with concrete information that can be used to rescue you from this mess.
If I were you, I would put EVERY SINGLE REPAIR on hold and start following what I'm being told to do here.
It pains me a lot to see people wasting money on their cars out of sheer ignorance. You are supposed to be owning your car, not your car owning you.

Start by posting pictures of your engine bay to settle this Venza engine argument, that's 1. Next, buy an OBD scanner that won't cost more than 10k and we will remotely teach you how to use it. You will be shocked how you will start teaching your mechanic his work in no time.


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Depends on your budget.
Your two biggest option to pick from will be a Toyota RAV4 or a Honda CRV. The year and the generation is not stated because that depends on what you have on ground.



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Location



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The 4 plugs turbocharged engine (M274, 2.0L) in this particular c300 model was designed to run on only fuel, which we don't have in Nigeria. So once you start using it, expect the pistons to melt at around 10,000km or so. By then, replacing the engine is also only a temporary solution, you will still be back to the same spot after roughly 10k km again. So the best is to pick the C400 with turbocharged engine(M276 3.0L).
Or you can cruise the car you already got for a few months and it on to the next who wouldn't mind replacing the engine later on. In any case, this is cars for rich kids.

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andrewtosin:
Chai... I am still interested oh

Zero8zero
8462
4616


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andrewtosin:
Abuja

Eyyah, you didn't respond early. I was considering selling mine to upgrade when I asked you earlier and ever since the thought crossed my mind I went ahead and sold it. If you're still interested let me know, I would inquire from my friend if he will be willing to resell it (I know say e go hard Sha, the guy dey pamper the car).


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Your location?

In all that has been said, I'd add that the factor that determines what you eventually buy is price first. Like you already know, a lexus equivalent of any other automaker will slightly before expensive than all other cars in its class.

All of them are great SUVs, now depending on your budget range, it becomes easy to point you in the direction of which to pick and which hear it will be.
Budget matters very much.

If you're having say 6-8m, you can get a Toks standard RX330 from 2006-2008, or direct Toks MDX from 2008-2010, or a very clean used 2008-2010 toyota highlander or Direct Toks Honda Pilot 2009-2011.

I would personally lean towards buying Toks that the above mentioned budget can get. Less stress, less tendency to meet abuses that you will have to restore.


Read the article below for your own good.



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Nukilia:
Na to start manufacturing keke...
Interested designers and inventors reach out ...

We gather here, designer to be precise

incogni2o:


Mushin, Lagos

Out of coverage area for now

Location?


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tosin1570:
We don't have any trusted shipping company but you are welcome to send your own courier to collect at Ajao Estate Isolo

Can you ship to Sangotedo, Lekki?

Hi Tosin,
Can ship to Abj?

What your mecho is about to do is to carry out a complete restoration of the electrical wiring harness of your car. I see botched wires and missing connectors going to the coils. These are the things he's going to purchase. The Jobe needs wires with matched color coding and missing connectors.

The two major skills required here is knowing how to read wiring diagrams and the actual job of neatly restoring the harness. A job like this is indeed stressful and cumbersome, but believe me, if that's all there is to it, with all this my English, I no fit confidently charge you 500k..Kilode!! If that's really all there is to the job, he can do it in one day and it shouldn't be more than 100k in labour and another 30k is spare parts. You can dash him extra 20k if he does the job to your utmost satisfaction.


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From the complaint, I would suspect a boggy motorized throttle body. Corollas from 2005 upwards use a Drive-By-Wire throttle control setup, meaning there's is not direct mechanical connection between your throttle pedal and the throttle body.

The first thing you should do is to sack your mecho, next, find a proper diagnosis guy who can read live data as you are driving the car. So he will be monitoring streamed data off of your ECU while you drive.. if he's experienced, he will be able to detect just what happens before the engine starts cutting out. I believe this has something to do implausible throttle correlation but just keep us posted whichever way you go.


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I don't know too much about the other Mazdas you mentioned, but you see that CX-7 with 2.3L DiSi Turbocharged Engine is a nightmare. When things start going wrong with it, it will take the grace of God for you to find a mechanic who will have the skill, patience and tools to fix it properly for you.

Lemme give you a perspective: to replace coil/plugs, you will have to remove the charge intercooler that sits right on top of the the valve cover. You can't carry out a cylinder drop down test to figure which cylinder is not firing. When you have any issue with fuel injectors, figuring out which one is faulty will involve stripping of the air intake and fuel delivery assembly. Any Mazda with this engine should be clearly avoided.

You might be better off with the CX-9 which comes with a V6 variant. Even that too, you should get the one with 3.7L that was ACTUALLY built by Mazda themselves starting from 2008 models.

You will thank me later.


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Curious345:
Good. Even at ₦500 per liter , Dangote is still making a whooping ₦137 as profit ..

So diesel shouldn't exceed ₦400 and petrol shouldn't exceed ₦150 of Dangote is getting his crude from Nigeria and paying in naira

Explain how you arrived at these figures please, I am genuinely interested to know.

Thanks

GAZZUZZ:


Yes I have.

Will be releasing a realistic approach to CNG penetration nationwide very soon

Okay boss

Oga Boss @Gazzuzz

Have you considered this CNG retrofitting for short distance commuting vehicles like NAPEPS and microbuses sir?




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You are my coil plug henceforth, the price is too good.

2GR is how much, the full set pls.



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This comment will annoy a lot of people on this thread, but look, I don't care...Peugeots are one of the most terrible cars you can own/work on as a mechanic.
I'll give my reasons from experience:

1. Peugeot engines are mostly fitted with timing belts and on Peugeots in particular, these belts snap in service. You can find a Toyota engine with timing belt doing 200,000 miles plus on the original timing belt. In fact many Japanese brands can reach this mileage without a timing belt replacement, but you see Peugeot, skip timing belt of 60k miles and see what happens. And once you're ready to change it, you have to replace water pump, idler pulley, tensioner and so on. Though this applies to all other brands too but with peugeot, the frequency of doing this can be frustrating. No to mention the difficulty of finding OEM parts with expensive price tags. I have lost count of the number of times friends call me to seek assistance of broken timing belt while they were on their way to doing something important. So yeah, this is very common with Peugeot.

2. Electronic problems are a huge concern with these cars. You can jam the door too hard and this car will go into "lock mode" where the body systems interface(BSI) will refuse to send a start authorization signal to the ECU(aka brain box) hence immobilizing the car from starting. You go crank tire! To fix this problem, you will need someone with PP2000 or Lexia to restore the handshake between the chip key transponder and the BSI. The worse thing is that it can happen anytime anywhere. Meaning that you can be left stranded in the middle of no where. Another common electronic problem is the Drive-By-Wire(DBW) throttle body that can just refuse to respond, once again you need a specialist to reprogram the throttle body.

3. Automatic transmission problems are almost an unavoidable reality that a Peugeot owner will face at least once in their ownership experience over the years. The terrible thing is that the problems always starts with simple harsh shifts or mild sluggishness and then graduates to loud bangs during upshift or a very unpleasant thump during downshift. It may even decide not to go into gear. This is why you will find that the majority of Peugeot owners choose manual over automatics. They are so problematic!


4. You always need a specialist. You can't just give your Peugeot to a regular Japanese or European mecho and expect him to give you good results all the time. There are electronic problems he can't fix for you no matter how hard he tries because it will cost him money to acquire the diagnostics tooling that will give him that capability. It is easier for Peugeot mechos to work on other brands than it is for other brand mechos to work on Peugeot.

There are lots of things I can say, but from experience, I'd tell you that the least problematic ones among them are the 406s and 206s. You those ones that end with 7, I'm telling you, visit the Peugeot specialist in Ladipo and see how may 307s are there compared to 206 and 406 combined.



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b3llo:
Buy tokunbo 2017 Toyota Corolla. You won't regret it.

For 10m?


Please supply me with 10 units ASAP, Abuja or Lagos deal



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izaac23:



The first few days the problem started, it jerks on idling when i kick the engine in the morning, but after few days, the jerking stoped on idling and was now jerking on my first drive of the day, especially when I load it with A/C when driving, if I throttle down, it will stall and vibrate instead of responding, then pick and drop and pick.

But it will stop the jerking altogether after driving a while for the day and becomes normal for the rest of the day.

We can start this diagnostics with the investigation of the Idle Air Control Valve which is an integral component of the throttle body (aka "injector mouth".

If you can't do this yourself, find a mecho an instruct him to remove the throttle body and unscrew the IAC valve. Check if it clogged. If yes, clean it, use very thin bead rtv gasket maker to seal all surfaces. See attached image
Reassemble and check if the problem persist and then revert..


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izaac23:



Good morning pals,
I have done as stated, I bought Visa fuel injector cleaner and poured it inside a full tank, fired it for 40mins on a highway, then reaching where I went, I fired back again.

The next morning, when I came to test drive it, the problem still persisted

My gurus, Is there any other recommendation in the house pls,

Is there anyone who has experienced this problem before, I need your expert advice pls.

This might need someone with real diagnostics skills fo figure out. Your 2003 Corolla uses drive by cable throttle body. When is it misfiring on idle, or when moving down the road or both?

Since you said the car was working fine before things went south all of a sudden, I will be suspecting that something failed, something that has close relationship with fuel metering.
I would be suspecting a leaking fuel injector or a failed idle air control valve. It could be a lot of things but let's start with the simple stuff first

Remote assistance is possible only to an extent, if you're lucky, we might get to the root cause of the problem.

Revert soon while I'm free let's see how we can tackle this.


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incogni2o:
Hello Everyone,

Just travelled down to my state from Lagos and as I was about getting home, My es330 stopped as I was about climbing a bump. I eventually started it after it was a bit reluctant and packed by the road side upon which I discovered the coolant was totally dry and temperature Guage was high,

Also discovered the fans were rolling at very slow speed.

This is my second overheating experience with this Car. 3 years used.

what should I look out for when with a mechanic.

Also does anyone have any experience with maintaining a Rx400H or Rx450H. My current es330 not mpg efficient at ol.

Sorry about your experience. Fortunately for me, my ownership experience with the ES330 was a very stress-free one until I decided to get an SUV and put it up for sale recently.

For you to have driven for very long before you ran our of coolant, this is likely a very small leak that you may not be able to see easily with your naked eyes. In fact, the coolant loss might be in form of steam as you're driving down the road. It could be from your radiator cap, there could be a small crack on the top of bottom radiator manifold, it could be a punctured cell, it could be an improperly installed hose clamp, it could be a leaking reservoir or any of the hoses in the coolant lines....hell it could even be a leaking headgasket where coolant sips into the combustion chamber and washes the piston crown. Long story short, there's a lot to inspect to be able to pinpoint the problem and this might need a remote diagnosis.
The coolant fans rolling slowly might be a faulty ECTS sensor on the radiator manifold below..i.e if the wiring of the car is still functioning as it should.

Remote diagnosis is difficult, if you're in Abj, then perhaps I can give a hand.



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Babatundehy:


Keep up the good work, that vendor should be Investigated, the conclusion most people will draw from this experience is that their vendor started selling fakes (knowingly or unknowingly), if the same brand of oil shut off the warning lights and had engine working optimally then the last oil change didn't go well, the sellers of fake oil don't have a heart, they know the implication is this dark behaviour of theirs (buyer spending thousands on engine rebuild or a million+ on used engine with no warranty) but they don't care.
Also, all forums are like this, rather than it being a proper forum, a place where people come together to discuss issues, share experiences and ideas, tips and tricks, it often becomes a place to attack one in the trade, challenge expertise, and or downplay an experience, na normal thing, let us all keep sharing, the forum has already become a compendium of knowledge, bants and cruise, lets keep it so Naija hard lol.

Thanks BabaT!
Learning is a continous process and I believe that's the reason people gather in a forum like this to share problems/solutions for our collective good.


Thanks once again for your contribution




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[quote author=wondarkid post=129289715]Please help me I have a problem with my Lexus Es350

I have been using this car for 2 years with no issue but yesterday while driving the radio just went off and immediately the car shut down while
Driving and won’t start immediately,I had to wait for an hour before it could start again ,same thing happened today ,I took the car to a rewire for scan he said it’s a wiring problem

Has anyone had similar issue before ??


Did he show you with evidence how it is a wiring problem? And how did he say he planned to fix it?

Did it rain heavily in recent times in your area?
Was there ANY work done on the car prior to this happening.
Find someone competent to tell you exactly what he would do to fix the problem and charge you accordingly. Don't allow anyone to "rewire" your car, you will lose taste with the outcome.




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jceesquare:

All this epistle for a simple question?
No one is an authority in car repairs. Not even the manufacturers because they also recall their products and improve on their errors.

It was indeed originally a simple question but later laced with intents of sarcasm in your following comments. Read the ensuing comments after your question and tell me why it is not necessary for me to make out time and respond to your question holistically.

I started my original comment with "I don't want to call out a brand wrongly", to tell you that I had reservations about the brand knowing that my colleagues in the trade recommend the oil for use.

Do you know that the vendor later apologized to the car owner for everything that happened. Do you know that during the overhaul of the engine, I met a choked oil filter? Do you know that the oil vendor threatened her oil filter supplier for counterfeit product? And it is the SAME product she has been supplying my customers for more than 5 years?

No abeg, the epistle was necessary. But like I said, I mean no single pint of disrespect to anyone and as you have rightly said, no one is an authority in this space. Recalls and class action lawsuits fly all over the place when manufacturer make errors/mistakes in their cars. So yeah, its all good!



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jceesquare:

So was it the Hardex that killed the engine and cause the slip?
Just curious to know.
And how if it's the culprit.

Thanks for asking.
The background story is that it is this same Hardex that the customer has been using for about a year plus. Upon first engagement with the customer, I asked them which oil they use in their Camry 2AZ engine (I noticed this particular engine wasn't burning oil, contrary what we know of most 2AZ engine), he said they use Hardex for both cars, then I told him to maintain using the oil. In fact, I've heard from other colleagues that the oil is good, just haven't tried it yet.

When the customer gave me the car for other tune-ups, I insisted that I won't change the oil because I can't find that particular brand around me. This time, it was the camry I worked on. After a month plus of delivering the car, they decided to change oil for both cars at once on the SAME day by the SAME mechanic they've been using in their area from the SAME vendor for oil and filter.
Now, a week after the oil change, he called me on phone to tell me that he heard some weird sound when started the camry that morning. I was curious, I burnt my fuel, got to his house and replicated the problem. This is NOT the regular cold start rattling sound of vvt gear and the sound last for up to a minute before it disappears. No oil light, checked vvt solenoid and it looked dirty. I cleaned it and reinstalled. Problem disappeared only for a few days. I came back again, cleaned the vvt filter screen behind the engine(it wasn't even dirty). It persisted!
Meanwhile, that same period, his wife driving the Acura started complaining that sometimes after she starts the car the oil light stay for some seconds before it goes off. Then there was this warning on the gauge cluster (oil pressure low). I removed the oil pressure sensor/switch, cleaned it and put it back. Problem disappeared for a few days just like the camry. I adviced them to do another oil change for both cars, that this coincidence is just weird. They said they couldn't afford to, so I told them to at LEAST change the filters and let's monitor and see. They didn't do that! A few weeks from that time, the camry engine knocked when the man was driving to work. Some car owners are not observant or are careless. Even when the car was making that grinding noise continously, the man decided to still drive to work like that. His wife warned him not to, but he persisted. Now, on the same day after the deed was done, he called me to seek towing assistance. He also sent me video to confirm the "sound" of the engine. It was obviously a knocking sound. He had sent same video to his wife and she confirmed that the engine was knocked even before he sought my assistance. Now, the wife being a bit more experienced than him with car repairs, called me and asked me to inquire price of engine and gear(the gear to had shifting concerns, we already had plans to replace it, faulty ABS module destroyed the gear because they drove it for months without speedo readings, a lot of crazy things happening on the dash back then which I helped them rectify). As I was giving the wife on the engine price while on phone, I heard her saying that the engine oil light for the Acura was blinking when she just started the car now. I told her to immediately shut it off and seek the attention of a nearby mech. She finally agreed that she will go aggressive with this situation and went ahead to change the oil and filter. Guess what, all the oil related problems for the Acura disappeared. Funny thing is, she used the same oil but from another vendor.
The camry ended up being towed to my workshop, weeks after I had time for it, we replaced the spun bearings, cut the crankshaft without opening the top cylinder. Everything was done from below. The gear too, we overhauled it because they couldn't buy toks for 450k back then. We restored it for 250k plus about 200k for the engine. The car has been on the road for more than 2 months now. They've not called me to lay any complain except to plan for next oil change.


So here's the deal, mechanics/car owners come here to explain their experiences with cars to the best of their ability in order to give or seek assistance, if you just show up to disregard all they've said just because you feel you're an authority in the car repair industry, it completely nullifies the whole point of the forum. People can make mistake, yes! When they do, call to their attention where the mistake/error is in order to protect other forum from being misled. But if all one looks out for is to downplay the input of his fellow petrol heads, then it completely negates the need for a thread like this. I don't mean any disrespect to anyone for saying this, its just something noteworthy in order to ensure that the original purpose of a thread is sustained.


Thank you,

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OP,

It can be very hurtful for one to seek second opinion from others in a bid to solidify one's original wishes only to end up being discouraged from that intention completely.

It is based on generally agreed s opinion that range rovers are money pits. This concensus is not by bystanders, it is from people with previous ownership experience of these cars. They just tend to fall apart even when you're fulfilling all righteousness in making sure everything stays working. Many LandRover products have needed a complete engine replacement at just 50,000 miles. This is when it is still under warranty. So it is true, Foreign used or not, these cars will fall apart.

Now, let's look on the bright side. Assuming you are into a particular kind of business line in which being flashy and looking expensive is what it takes to close more sales/win more contracts, then by all means, buy the car! Just be ready to live with the eventual circumstances. Find a LR specialist and don't try to cut corners on repairs when the need arises.

PS:
Assuming you had another spare 7-8m, it will be advisable to get an additional Toks Toyota Corolla 2011/2012 or a Camry Muscle of the same year. You will use this one as your domestic runabout car and then use the RR as a "turn up" kind of car. This advice is best applicable if the RR is the only car you will be owning.

My 2kobo



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Elui2:


How much is the Mobil oil?

Too many variant of mobil oil there are;
1.
The oga pata pata of them all na Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 0W-40. This is sold at 60k(5 liters) in Madalla Mobil filling station

2. There's this one they call 3000, I think 22k 4liters

3. There's one they call 1000 xhp 20W-50, I think 18k

4. There's this one with blue gallon they call "special", 20W-50, this was the one I bought last time I was there @14,500.

This was on 01/04/2024


Use the same grade as the one you've been using.

For your ES350, the recommended oil is 5W-30


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The catalyst has been worked, yes.

This particular one will cost between 50-80k to replace depending on location and your mechanic's greed.

That said, a failed catalyst will not cause the symptoms you are currently complaining about. If the codes you are getting are p0141/p0420 and so on, your car will only consume more fuel than normal but the engine won't behave the way yours is doing.

Had the mecho confirmed that there's no restriction is the exhaust channel?


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