NewStats: 3,263,914 , 8,181,871 topics. Date: Sunday, 08 June 2025 at 06:31 PM 5d5w20

calculation:

Just drop number to call. I may not be chance to explain here

When you typed this...i actually knew you were just looking who to collect money from.... chai..Nigerians and their doings.
Now you condem the solution again just because i didn't call you or send you money

calculation:

That is good. Note it now that you just extend the reoccurrence of the leakage with time. By design location, the seal filter tend to flat with time and allow oil leakage.

I never said it was leaking.
There was never an oil leakage.
The sensor just primarily failed to raise the car beyond 80km/per hour.

berbs112:



I have experienced this in the past. Your rewire needs to check the IVtech sensor at the back of the engine, left hand side. It might be clogged or needs replacement

Thanks. Replacing the ivtec sensor solved the problem

kelvinmnet:


The sensor is around 10k, if am not mistaken

Thanks to you.
After getting a new ivtec sensor...it solved the problem

calculation:

My Brother, that ivtec na Wahala, if I tell you that the solution is not replacement bit 1K cost if you can do it yourself.

A new ivtec sensor solved the problem

kelvinmnet:


The sensor is around 10k, if am not mistaken

My rewire said 20k o

calculation:

My Brother, that ivtec na Wahala, if I tell you that the solution is not replacement bit 1K cost if you can do it yourself.

Abeg..what is the solution. Let me see if its what i can fix

kelvinmnet:


It's the sensor I think atolani mentioned before where he pointed the arrow. You can check the code on YouTube and watch videos on it. You can clean the sensor first and if it doesn't work, you can replace it.

P0325 is the knock sensor...changed that already.
P2646 is the ivtec sensor at the back... it was cleaned, but it didn't respond, so the jerk still continues at 80km/hr.
The rewire said we have to order it from Lagos.
Still trying to the cost.

The whole stress is distressing already 😫

berbs112:


That P2646 is the same sensor I mentioned. The I have no idea about other code. I believe one will solve the other.

P0325 is the knock sensor...changed that already.
P2646 is the ivtec sensor at the back... it was cleaned, but it didn't respond, so the jerk still continues at 80km/hr.
The rewire said we have to order it from Lagos.
Still trying to the cost.

The whole stress is distressing already 😫

berbs112:


The IVtech sensor is attached to the back of the engine close to where the arrow is pointed at the back of the engine and it's held by 3 Bolts.

I have diagnosed the car.
It shows P2646 and P0325 codes

kelvinmnet:


Yes it will give you a code that indicate its the MAP sensor if that's the issue.

I have diagnosed the car.
It shows P2646 and P0325 codes

kelvinmnet:


This happened to me few weeks ago. I scanned and it showed the MAP sensor. However, the sensor is good but the socket didn't go in properly. I had to change the socket and that was it. Hope your mech knows the difference between the MAP and MAF sensor.

Yes i know the map sensor.
One stupid mechanic got it broken when he wanted to remove it.
He went to get other sensors there but he said they are all not working as effective as the one there, so he returned the previous one there.

Please will scanning the car bring up the particular sensor that's at fault?

berbs112:


The IVtech sensor is attached to the back of the engine close to where the arrow is pointed at the back of the engine and it's held by 3 Bolts.

Okay i get.
They have cleaned it.
I will get it scanned and be sure of which sensor to replace when i am boxed up..and revert

berbs112:



I have experienced this in the past. Your rewire needs to check the IVtech sensor at the back of the engine, left hand side. It might be clogged or needs replacement

Is that the sensor i am pointing a red arrow to?

jceesquare:

The importance of running scan on a morden car has been over flogged on this platform.
You as a matter of urgency needs to replace your mechanic ASAP and get a competent one like 07089030689 to diagnose and fix your car

Where is his location?

Namzy:


Is your check engine light on?

Yes. But check engine light has been on even before the issue started

berbs112:



I have experienced this in the past. Your rewire needs to check the IVtech sensor at the back of the engine, left hand side. It might be clogged or needs replacement

That IVtech sensor has been checked and cleaned twice now. No improvement.
The option now is to take it to ibadan tomorrow and conduct extensive scan. We ll see if we can replace it and check again.
Whether its map sensor or IVtech sensor

Good day everyone.
I am currently having a problem with honda accord 2004 v4 engine that I just bought as Naija used.

The car jerks violently when i accelerate and it reaches around 60 to 70km/hr

I have serviced the nozzle, injector
, changed fuel pump, serviced the Map sensor..still no solution.
Infact, once i reach speeds btw 60 to 70km/hr..it jerks violently that i have to take my leg off acceleration. Once i don't drive above that speed, it runs fine.

I don't know what else to do.
My mechanic said he has ran out of ideas.
Infact when i read online that the Map sensor can cause it....my mechanic when to test different map sensors, he said they map sensor in the car works better than all the ones they tested from the seller.

Another point is that the Rev is fine on idle..it can rev very above 5000rev.

I don't know what other sensor to check

calculusx:


Servicing the nozzle and injector will solve the problem. Exactly what i did for a Customer over the weekend and Car is back up and running.

I am currently having this same problem with honda accord 2004.
I have serviced the nozzle, injector
, changed fuel pump, serviced the Map sensor..still no solution.
Infact, once i reach speeds btw 60 to 70km/hr..it jerks violently that i have to take my leg off acceleration.
I don't know what else to do.
My mechanic said he has ran out of ideas

Good morning.
So my Toyota corolla 2006 is jerking when u put the gear in drive. Also when i am accelerating...as it changes from gear 1 to 2, you ll feel the jerk(a kind of forward push).
I have heard the issue with my matrix before,and it was the gear mount that got broken,it was changed and the jerking stopped.
But now, the mechanic checked all the engine seat and gear mount and they are intact.
Transmission fluid is well gauged and pink.
Injector, fuel filter and plugs are fine.

However, we noticed that the bottom plate of the gear has hit ground before and slightly pressed inward.
The mechanic plan to open it and straightened it out, he said the gear might be forcefully drawing oil because of that.
He also said there's a worn up 'cup' beside the gear which he has packed.(that However didn't resolve the issue)
The jerk is just a bit exergerrated beyond the normal gear engagement you ll normally notice when you engage the gear.
From my previous experience....it shows thesame way it does with my matrix untill i changed the gear mount.
I was suprise this corolla isn't gear mount issue.

Please any plausible suggestions 🙏

Collione:


Now the issue you are experiencing is caused by the rocker arm sensor. Tell your mechanic to service it and ensure that the wires have no issues. If he does it and you test it, it should be rectified however if it continues then you need to replace it. Whenever the Rocker arm sensor fails you won't be able to over rev it will hook at 2k or max 3k rpm . If you force the rpm, the car will jerk as if you have gear problem but trust me your gear is fine.

You also need to meet a good qualified mechanic to find out what's wrong with your other sensors cos your car isn't performing optimally

Good morning.
So my Toyota corolla 2006 is jerking when u put the gear in drive. Also when i am accelerating...as it changes from gear 1 to 2, you ll feel the jerk(a kind of forward push).
I have heard the issue with my matrix before,and it was the gear mount that got broken,it was changed and the jerking stopped.
But now, the mechanic checked all the engine seat and gear mount and they are intact.
Transmission fluid is well gauged and pink.
Injector, fuel filter and plugs are fine.

However, we noticed that the bottom plate of the gear has hit ground before and slightly pressed inward.
The mechanic plan to open it and straightened it out, he said the gear might be forcefully drawing oil because of that.
He also said there's a worn up 'cup' beside the gear which he has packed.(that However didn't resolve the issue)
The jerk is just a bit exergerrated beyond the normal gear engagement you ll normally notice when you engage the gear.
From my previous experience....it shows thesame way it does with my matrix untill i changed the gear mount.
I was suprise this corolla isn't gear mount issue.

Please any plausible suggestions 🙏

Good morning.
So my Toyota corolla 2006 is jerking when u put the gear in drive. Also when i am accelerating...as it changes from gear 1 to 2, you ll feel the jerk(a kind of forward push).
I have heard the issue with my matrix before,and it was the gear mount that got broken,it was changed and the jerking stopped.
But now, the mechanic checked all the engine seat and gear mount and they are intact.
Transmission fluid is well gauged and pink.
Injector, fuel filter and plugs are fine.

However, we noticed that the bottom plate of the gear has hit ground before and slightly pressed inward.
The mechanic plan to open it and straightened it out, he said the gear might be forcefully drawing oil because of that.
He also said there's a worn up 'cup' beside the gear which he has packed.(that However didn't resolve the issue)
The jerk is just a bit exergerrated beyond the normal gear engagement you ll normally notice when you engage the gear.
From my previous experience....it shows thesame way it does with my matrix untill i changed the gear mount.
I was suprise this corolla isn't gear mount issue.

Please any plausible suggestions 🙏

GAZZUZZ:
This thread is dedicated to solving car related problems, it will cover all issues feel free to post problems here, Car gurus your posts are welcome and highly appreciated.

Good morning.
So my Toyota corolla 2006 is jerking when u put the gear in drive. Also when i am accelerating...as it changes from gear 1 to 2, you ll feel the jerk(a kind of forward push).
I have heard the issue with my matrix before,and it was the gear mount that got broken,it was changed and the jerking stopped.
But now, the mechanic checked all the engine seat and gear mount and they are intact.
Transmission fluid is well gauged and pink.
Injector, fuel filter and plugs are fine.

However, we noticed that the bottom plate of the gear has hit ground before and slightly pressed inward.
The mechanic plan to open it and straightened it out, he said the gear might be forcefully drawing oil because of that.
He also said there's a worn up 'cup' beside the gear which he has packed.(that However didn't resolve the issue)
The jerk is just a bit exergerrated beyond the normal gear engagement you ll normally notice when you engage the gear.
From my previous experience....it shows thesame way it does with my matrix untill i changed the gear mount.
I was suprise this corolla isn't gear mount issue.

Please any plausible suggestions 🙏?

cardoctor:
Automatic gearbox issues have become a reoccuring decimal to any automatic car owner. Slow take off, sluggish acceleration, lack of kick down, loss of drive while in motion, lack of gear change, aggressive gear changes, high engine revs without power in drive just to name a few.

From my observation and the complaints made by some of our customers, these problems usually start from a gearbox oil change that was recommended by the mechanic who then uses the wrong type of ATF oil for the transmission.

Most car manufacturers develop their own ATF formula for their cars.

Honda recommends their own formula ATF-z1 for their gearboxes manufactured between 1998 to 2009 and upgraded to the ATF-Dw1 for gearboxes manufactured from 2010 upwards.

Toyota uses the Type 4 ATF for their cars manufactured between1996 to 2007 and the Toyota WS ATF for ones manufactured between 2007 to present.

Most other car manufactures have also upgraded the type of ATF for their modern cars from the common Dexron 2 and 3 petroleum mineral blends.

Using the wrong grade of ATF would almost certainly result in a failing transmission. Low grade ATF may not be able to handle the extreme temperature operations of an auto gearbox. Under very high temperatures, low grade oil loses its viscosity and may begin to boil causing loss of hydraulic functions by frothing or foaming. With lubrication and cooling functions inhibited, electric solenoids and valves including fibres on the wet clutch plates begin to disintegrate with other terminal damages occuring.

Some remedies I have seen used by local mechanics is to further add Engine oil to the gearbox in order to increase the viscosity of the ATF. This in turn puts the pump under great stress as the thicker oil would require more effort from the pump in distributing the oil under high pressure as well as the oil filter which is usually embedded within the transmission gear train. (The removal and changing of all Honda transmission oil filter would require the removal of the gear box from the car and stripping down the gearbox)

The resulting consequence would be an imminent and extreme overheating of the transmission and components such as the friction plates and a rapid degradation of the wet clutch fibres hence the loss of drive, slipping clutch and rough gear changes.

Replacing the gearbox or a total overhaul by an expert would be the likely solution but before then, an inexperienced mechanic would Send you on a wild goose chase by suggesting the removal and servicing or outright replacement of shift solenoids on the outer casing of the gearbox. These solutions Don't last as its just a temporal remedy to a terminal issue.

We constantly repair these gearboxes and those of other makes to a very high standard with 99.9% success rate and we recommend that if you are having serious issues with your automatic gearbox, ensure that appropriate procedures are followed.



Car-Doctor.

Thank you for the well detailed explanation.
I have also heard that the 3MZ engine doesn't cosume as much fuel as the 2GR...this is something said to be specific to Toyota sienna.
I guess 2004/2005 will be my best option

AutoJando:


To be honest, your ₦3.7m budget is already a good figure for a Nigerian Used 2007 sienna in decent condition. In fact, you may get one for 3.3-3.5isshh, then you keep the balance for contingency expenses.

The only caveat here is that the 2006-2007 Sienna upwards comes with a slightly bigger engine(2GR-FE 3.5L) compared to the 2003-2005 that comes with 3MZ-FE 3.3L engine. Both are solid Toyota V6 engines but I'd pick the 3MZ over the 2GR for these reasons:

1. The early generations of this 2GR engine is notorious for front timing cover oil leak and and cold start rattling sound. Regardless of the oil grade you use, regardless of how religious you are with oil change, this will happen at one point or the other in the lifetime of this engine. Using the right oil and doing early maintenance will delay this problem but it will happen. And when it does, the whole engine has the come down to replace the camshaft phasors. This problem was completely solved in the third generation 2GR starting from 2013.

2. The 3MZ engine is much less complicated and you don't need a special mechanic to be able to fix most of its problems. The only problem that it is notorious for is sludge build IF maintenance is not done regularly. It is also slightly more compact than the 2GR so there's more room for repair jobs in the engine bay.

If you notice, many of the long distance transporters use the 2003-2005 sienna instead of the 2006-2007(I know this because the headlights/tail lights are slightly different. The others that offer luxury travel use the 2009-2012 Sienna.

When picking one, just make sure it doesn't have history of being used for public transport. Look untouched engine, smooth selecting gear, straight body(even if there are minor dents and scratches that shouldn't be a problem), check for RUST, ensure that there's minimal electrical tampering and by God's grace, every other thing can be sorted out little by little until you don't have nothing serious to fix.

All the best!

Well written.
My budget now is 3.7M
I want to buy a Toyota sienna 2nd generation.
Can that budget buy a good one?
I use a Toyota matrix 2007 currently that i intend to give to my wife.
I want to buy a sienna because of the possibility of future use for business in carrying things.

What are the other considerations for that budget.
I don't want a car with problem at all.
Or shld i just scale done to a Toyota camry big daddy?
The matrix has been going for 2years now..the highest i av done is change tyres and bushing...despite being a naija used car

Dozieson:


Naija used cars before 2019/2020 were a bit reasonable because original parts and fluids were relatively affordable. People now abused their cars to a terrible extent before selling off. Most sell off because the cars are in terrible shape. You can still get few good ones but is it very difficult to come by

Thank you for this

dadabashua1:
very true that budget can get him naija used matrix and the corolla ,but CRV 08 I'm not sure,except a distress sell.

Are Naija used cars really bad that it doesn't worth considering?
Because puting as much as 2m on a car without certainty too is dangerous

ifytrik:
Add small money and buy foreign used Camry envelope or better still buy Volkswagen golf3 wagon and use the remaining change to it, please avoid naija used cars like flu
Talking from experience

Like How much can i add?

I can still push up my budget to 2m or 2.2m

Dozieson:


Your budget may not get a good crv 2008. But all three cars are okay. Be careful with naija used. Most of these cars have been seriously abused

Thank you for the response

Please Kindly advice which to get as a first timer, i want to get either a Corolla sports or Matrix (2005 above) or Honda CRV 2008 above.
I will prefer a car that generally has low cost of maintenance and also good. Fuel consumption too should be average.
Please My Budget is around 1.8M.
Even if its Nigerian use, a very good engine,gear and tyres are paramount to me.

Kindly give your counsel..or if you also have them available

Ikenna351:
Hi all,
Please Kindly advice which to get as a first timer, i want to get either a Corolla sports or Matrix (2005 above) or Honda CRV 2008 above.
I will prefer a car that generally has low cost of maintenance and also good. Fuel consumption too should be average.
Please My Budget is around 1.8M.
Even if its Nigerian use, a very good engine,gear and tyres are paramount to me.

Kindly give your counsel..or if you also have them available
I realised there is a need for us to have a thread where we can say it very loud. Hence, the creation of this room.

In this room, we can derail as much as we want, discuss off topics, etc.

But please, no derogatory words, sales, adverts, spams or posting. Other than these, fire on!

*Note that this room is not for posting our normal car issues and seeking solutions for them. We have the entire section, outside this room, for that.

.

Dawn91:
[s][/s]
Please what do you mean by your reply