NewStats: 3,263,368 , 8,179,922 topics. Date: Thursday, 05 June 2025 at 05:05 PM 3noc

futurenix:
Thank you plenty.

You are most welcome.

ojeysky:


Unless the inverter has a dedicated port for that and your CC also s that don't do it! Output from CC should go to your battery terminals!

As you can see is to the battery terminals. It is hooked at the battery terminals on the Inverter instead of running the cable from the CC down to the batteries, I stopped at the height of the Inverter. Did I lose anything from the s to charge the battery?

ojtech8291:
As you can see is to the battery terminals. It is hooked at the battery terminals on the Inverter instead of running the cable from the CC down to the batteries, I stopped at the height of the Inverter. Did I lose anything from the s to charge the battery?

Maybe you need to do some labeling on the drawing. What I see from the diagram is that output of CC goes on to the output of the inverter battery terminal (on the inverter), and I was suggesting that it will be better you take it to the battery terminal instead as we don't know the ratings of that inverter battery terminal (which will be practically serving as bus bar for your CC) and we don't know how it will react to current from the CC directly hitting the bus bar.

As to losing current, possibly a little depending on how much current you will be pushing on the cable between inverter and battery

ojeysky:


Maybe you need to do some labeling on the drawing. What I see from the diagram is that output of CC goes on to the output of the inverter battery terminal (on the inverter), and I was suggesting that it will be better you take it to the battery terminal instead as we don't know the ratings of that inverter battery terminal (which will be practically serving as bus bar for your CC) and we don't know how it will react to current from the CC directly hitting the bus bar.

As to losing current, possibly a little depending on how much current you will be pushing on the cable between inverter and battery

I will amend it seems affecting the battery charging. Thank you.

Firstly, the fact that the BMS LVD feature always sets in implies that the battery is experiencing some abuse from the . For your pal, by the time the BMS LVD triggers, battery voltage is likely at 21.6v (2.7v per cell). It is better not to run in below 24v or at worst 23.8v (2.7v per cell). That way, he may be able to get a high cycle of use at that DoD. Note that even at that his 21.6v DoD, he may still be able to get some 6 years of use, but with 24v he nears some 10 years. Ditto increased years for DoD greater than 24v. Frequently deep discharging the LFP will make the cells to quickly get out of balance even though a BMS is present and the long term effect of that if not corrected is that some cells in the pack get stressed more than the others, them rapid degeneration.

Secondly, there are LFP assemblers that give the option of installing a switch on the enclosure that you can press to do the reset. But if you choose that option, you risk losing the warranty on the pack because to that assembler, that means potential abuse which voids warranty.

Thirdly, your friend has another option of waking up the BMS - charging with generator. Solar input may not push in enough initial current to kick-start the BMS, but an external AC charger will surely do.

Finally, that battery should not be habitually discharged below 24v to get your max cycle of use outta it. He can get an external LVD device to control the battery output to the inverter or if he can afford, get an extra LFP type to share the work with the existing one (connected in parallel).

mctfopt:
Who can help my friend solve this problem? He has an LFP with 24v 60A Daly BMS common port. The problem is that whenever the LVD is triggered, it does not automatically reset when charge flows from PV (say the next morning when the sun comes up) unless manually byed. By manual by I mean using a short cable to connect to the battery's negative and to the point where the BMS solar charge controller negative and inverter terminal battery negative meets, in simple replacing the BMS with a short wire. Is there a way to make this automatic? For instance in a remote site, it is expected that the inverter comes up by itself (if it the batteries drain at night) the next morning when the sun comes up. But this behaviour will make such a scenario not play out.

ojtech8291:
I will amend it seems affecting the battery charging. Thank you.

Perhaps with an appropriately sized busbar, that your circuit diagram will be feasible.

ceaser:
Firstly, the fact that the BMS LVD feature always sets in implies that the battery is experiencing some abuse from the . For your pal, by the time the BMS LVD triggers, battery voltage is likely at 21.6v (2.7v per cell). It is better not to run in below 24v or at worst 23.8v (2.7v per cell). That way, he may be able to get a high cycle of use at that DoD. Note that even at that his 21.6v DoD, he may still be able to get some 6 years of use, but with 24v he nears some 10 years. Ditto increased years for DoD greater than 24v. Frequently deep discharging the LFP will make the cells to quickly get out of balance even though a BMS is present and the long term effect of that if not corrected is that some cells in the pack get stressed more than the others, them rapid degeneration.

Secondly, there are LFP assemblers that give the option of installing a switch on the enclosure that you can press to do the reset. But if you choose that option, you risk losing the warranty on the pack because to that assembler, that means potential abuse which voids warranty.

Thirdly, your friend has another option of waking up the BMS - charging with generator. Solar input may not push in enough initial current to kick-start the BMS, but an external AC charger will surely do.

Finally, that battery should not be habitually discharged below 24v to get your max cycle of use outta it. He can get an external LVD device to control the battery output to the inverter or if he can afford, get an extra LFP type to share the work with the existing one (connected in parallel).

Well said, the option of kickstarting with utility/Gen always work, it could also be that just 1 cell is running low so while how to restart the battery is resolved, he needs to be sure that the cells are well balanced as well. My inverter highest LVD is 24v (one of the few flaws of MPP) I just rely on my BMV alarm instead which is set to 25.5v

ceaser:
Firstly, the fact that the BMS LVD feature always sets in implies that the battery is experiencing some abuse from the . For your pal, by the time the BMS LVD triggers, battery voltage is likely at 21.6v (2.7v per cell). It is better not to run in below 24v or at worst 23.8v (2.7v per cell). That way, he may be able to get a high cycle of use at that DoD. Note that even at that his 21.6v DoD, he may still be able to get some 6 years of use, but with 24v he nears some 10 years. Ditto increased years for DoD greater than 24v. Frequently deep discharging the LFP will make the cells to quickly get out of balance even though a BMS is present and the long term effect of that if not corrected is that some cells in the pack get stressed more than the others, them rapid degeneration.

BMS trips at 25v. Battery may be a little undersized for the project.

Secondly, there are LFP assemblers that give the option of installing a switch on the enclosure that you can press to do the reset. But if you choose that option, you risk losing the warranty on the pack because to that assembler, that means potential abuse which voids warranty.

A switch involves someone being physically present at location. A situation which is unfortunate as that can't happen.

Thirdly, your friend has another option of waking up the BMS - charging with generator. Solar input may not push in enough initial current to kick-start the BMS, but an external AC charger will surely do.

Strictly off-grid project. No gen in location nor any plans to put one in yet.

Finally, that battery should not be habitually discharged below 24v to get your max cycle of use outta it. He can get an external LVD device to control the battery output to the inverter or if he can afford, get an extra LFP type to share the work with the existing one (connected in parallel).

Thank you very much for your input. It is super appreciated.

mctfopt:


BMS trips at 25v. Battery may be a little undersized for the project.

You may need to open that battery, it's most likely a cell went as low as 2.7v you need to balance the cells of those batteries Bro

ceaser:


I actually have one that I have retired. Very good product like that. Used for a year. 12v "BTS" PSW with AC charger with 20% 50% selectable DoD. But it's 750kva so I'm not too sure if it will handle your load. I believe the highest KVA with 12v in that product line up is 1.2kva. Higher KVA come at 24v nominal. It was bought off of Konga. I'll see if I can retrieve the link.

Do you still recommend this pure sine wave inverter, i need a pure sine wave majorly bcus of my home theater i hate that sounds it makes on a modified since wave. Hope its wave is truly pure and will work well for home theater

Pls I have a 60A mppt Cc and I'm about to buy 6 solar s of the spec. below. I would like to know the best way to connect the the s together. Series , parallel or both?

harizonal123:
Pls I have a 60A mppt Cc and I'm about to buy 6 solar s of the spec. below. I would like to know the best way to connect the the s together. Series , parallel or both?

You need to specify the voltage rating of your cc and your inverter.

Total number of s in series connection will be such that the total Voc of the series s will be between those 2 figures.

Your inverter voltage times 60A will determine maximum total wattage of it can take without wasting power or getting damaged.

spartacus11:


Do you still recommend this pure sine wave inverter, i need a pure sine wave majorly bcus of my home theater i hate that sounds it makes on a modified since wave. Hope its wave is truly pure and will work well for home theater

Bought one this week, no inbuilt charger but psw, rated 600w from a guy in Lagos. Very energy

Penuelseun:
Bought one this week, no inbuilt charger but psw, rated 600w from a guy in Lagos. Very energy

Pls, is this truly a pure sine wave inverter?

ojeysky:
So I got a couple of few extra when I placed some orders for my use. The extras are available for sale to anyone interested. Here is the list:

50A lithium Charger with adjustable current/voltage - 50k
5pcs

ANT BMS 7s to 16s 320A without LCD display - 48k
1unit left

Smart BMS 4s 35A UART (with optional Bluetooth module) - 28k
4pieces

8s balancer - 8k
2pieces

4s balancer - 4500
5pcs

I have some busbars as well but I will need to do some calculations first to know how much extra will be available after my planed upgrade.

WhatsApp/call - 0 8 0 3 5 23 35 35

Fyi they can all be found on AE

An update on status of the accessories that are still available

Need a 12v 1kva hybrid, any suggestion on a good one?

mank1234:


You need to specify the voltage rating of your cc and your inverter.

Total number of s in series connection will be such that the total Voc of the series s will be between those 2 figures.

Your inverter voltage times 60A will determine maximum total wattage of battery it can take without wasting power or getting damaged.

Inverter is 24v

mahkanjuh:


Pls, is this truly a pure sine wave inverter?

Yes it is

harizonal123:

Inverter is 24v

Go with 3s2p or 2s3p.

Edit:
260w * 6 = 1560W.
Your cc puts max PV power at 1440W, you need to read the manual to know if and how it handles the excess, though you'll rarely (or never) reach 100% production.

harizonal123:

Inverter is 24v

Your CC has several rooms for connections.

Penuelseun:
Bought one this week, no inbuilt charger but psw, rated 600w from a guy in Lagos. Very energy

How much did u get this for please

mank1234:


Go with 3s2p or 2s3p.

Edit:
260w * 6 = 1560W.
Your cc puts max PV power at 1440W, you need to read the manual to know if and how it handles the excess, though you'll rarely (or never) reach 100% production.

The two days sun made my cc to lose memory oh... Because of excess. Just do 4 s for your 24V setup.

harizonal123:

Inverter is 24v

YOU can do 3s2p, over sizing is allowed..upto 20%, its the Voc, you should be careful not to exceed
...am running 2kw on a 24v inverter. 60amps epsolar cc, for years now.
pls note; the size of your inverter has no bearing on the s you intend to connect, only the CC has that much power to dictate that

earthrealm:


YOU can do 3s2p, over sizing is allowed..upto 20%, its the Voc, you should be careful not to exceed
...am running 2kw on a 24v inverter. 60amps epsolar cc, for years now.
pls note; the size of your inverter has no bearing on the s you intend to connect, only the CC has that much power to dictate that

How about connecting all six in parallel? Is there any implications

earthrealm:
the size of your inverter has no bearing on the s you intend to connect, only the CC has that much power to dictate that

Voltage of the inverter does.
A 12v inverter will do half of what a 24v inverter will allow. 24v inverter will allow half of what a 58v inverter will.

Hello house what is the best cc for 5kva inverter 24v and how many for the setup

Your battery bank size will determine the number of s needed , and the number of s will determine the size of the CC

emyfine08:
Hello house what is the best cc for 5kva inverter 24v and how many for the setup

earthrealm:


YOU can do 3s2p, over sizing is allowed..upto 20%, its the Voc, you should be careful not to exceed
...am running 2kw on a 24v inverter. 60amps epsolar cc, for years now.
pls note; the size of your inverter has no bearing on the s you intend to connect, only the CC has that much power to dictate that

I have a similar set up and I just added a dispay to my CC. I would like to know what your daily readings are cos I don't understand mine. My s are 250W connected 2S 4P. Please can someone explain what the readings should be for a good install.

babniyen:

I have a similar set up and I just added a dispay to my CC. I would like to know what your daily readings are cos I don't understand mine. My s are 250W connected 2S 3P. Please can someone explain what the readings should be for a good install.

let's see the particular readings your don't understand?
better still share images of the readings

spartacus11:


Do you still recommend this pure sine wave inverter, i need a pure sine wave majorly bcus of my home theater i hate that sounds it makes on a modified since wave. Hope its wave is truly pure and will work well for home theater

The inverter is a true PSW. And a good one too. If AC power is good, it charges well (20A charger I think). It has a lot of battery, load and output info on the display, but unlike some in its category, there is no way to turn the various displays on the screen off.

harizonal123:

Inverter is 24v

Hmmm. The familiar PowMr MPPT.

Did you take delivery of this pre-covid? Cos I got two units stuck in shipping till now.