NewStats: 3,262,614 , 8,177,694 topics. Date: Tuesday, 03 June 2025 at 03:31 AM 2j2j35

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Yes you are on point.

This illustration is beautifully done - far better than my scatter diagram - please what software/tool are you using to make the diagrams?

Two things I would add;

1) Keep the jumper cable between battery negative and battery side of the shunt as SHORT and THICK as possible. When I used a meter such as this I paralleled two short lengths of 16MM to make my jumper cable.

2) Don't forget the 2W/3W jumper pins that Oga Pranil mentioned in case the meter does not come on at first try. The jumper pins are pretty close to the +Vn switch where you attach the red wire coming from battery positive to the shunt near the battery side.

The applicable scenario is the first one on the manual I believe - the option with no external separate power supply.

If you have 2P DC breaker why not disconnect both + ve and -Ve- The way I normally do it is to use DC breaker immediately after the battery so it can safely switch off all inverter, charge controller and the shunt

Thanks @NiyiOmoIyunade for the great help. I used Microsoft Visio 2010 for the design. The meter came with attached cable in the picture below. Guess is the one you are talking about.

[img][/img]

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Yes you are on point.

This illustration is beautifully done - far better than my scatter diagram - please what software/tool are you using to make the diagrams?

Two things I would add;

1) Keep the jumper cable between battery negative and battery side of the shunt as SHORT and THICK as possible. When I used a meter such as this I paralleled two short lengths of 16MM to make my jumper cable.

2) Don't forget the 2W/3W jumper pins that Oga Pranil mentioned in case the meter does not come on at first try. The jumper pins are pretty close to the +Vn switch where you attach the red wire coming from battery positive to the shunt near the battery side.

The applicable scenario is the first one on the manual I believe - the option with no external separate power supply.

Ok thanks @pranil. Is it the -Ve from the inverter that would through the breaker or the the -Ve (jumper cable) that would through the breaker B?

pranil:




If you have 2P DC breaker why not disconnect both + ve and -Ve- The way I normally do it is to use DC breaker immediately after the battery so it can safely switch off all inverter, charge controller and the shunt

bigrovar:


Energy storage is at the mid way point of its transition from Lead Acid due to pressure to find a more sustainable means of generating energy. I honestly see lithium to be a stop gap technology that might soon be superseded as more research money is thrown at solving the energy storage problem. Lithium is still a rare earth material available in very few places on earth. Even if the technology stabilises I expect price would go down up to a point thanks to technology and then shoot up as the low price drive demand .. and that demand would eventually outstrip the supply of lithium. I strategy is to sit and wait and see how it all pans out. The high cost of Lithium now is what is funding many of the research into making it a stable commodity and the raise of electric cars will put more pressure into pushing down price of energy storage and lead to the creation of turnkey all in one solution. My next major upgrade will still be lead acid based probably see what the next 5 years will hold.

My research leads me to believe you're on to something

sinistrian:

Compare the two graphs below. The frequency of the troughs show how often the sweep is done, while the the depth/width of the troughs in the graph indicate how far it fell and how long it took to get back to Vmp.

The first one is the fangpusun with intermittent clouds ing over. Whenever it's overcast, the controller drops output and then starts hunting for the max power point. There is an annoying one around 2pm where it took a long time to get its wits together.

The second graph is for the tristar (low power output in the morning cos we were not home and all appliances were off). The troughs are not as deep/wide and yet they are more frequent, indicating that it detects the Vmp quickly after the clouds . This graph is not a great comparison as it wasn't too sunny today. But this result looks promising.

The Fangpusun are clones of the Victron in this regard. However, after the initial minutes of hunting the grid, it seems to constantly do sweeps. Data extrapolated from my 5-day old Victron BlueSolar MPPT 150/70 (VE.CAN model)

MAboyarin:
Good morning,

Please, what is the function of "customized" under charger control of Cyber power 1.2 KVA inverter as shown below?

Thanks.

Cc:
kiekie1
GeorgeD1
makavele
pranil
NiyiOmoIyunade
bigrovar
Saipro
JUO
DMerciful
BRIGHTSOLAR

That function is best left on the "default" mode(13.7v/27.4v).....its got to do with charge voltage, the customized mode involves some pcb component tweaking which alters it to some voltage values depending on the level of tweaking.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
If you are keeping your system voltage at 12v then you can easily combine the Ritar and FullRiver batteries in parallel even though they have different Ah capacities.

If your parallel battery connections are properly done you will not need a balancer since batteries in parallel naturally balance out (charge will flow from higher voltage battery to lower voltage battery over time).

As for desulphators I am pretty skeptical of their ability to resolve hard sulphation in batteries but in your scenario where the battery seems to be responding to use and recharge (recharging a battery properly is actually desulphation), it would not hurt to add one on to help things along. Be careful though as I have some evidence that desulphators ruin the cbarging circuitry in MustPower type inverters - dunno about other brands.

If you still want to acquire desulphators, I have leftovers from the days I still believed in them - 12v × 3pcs and 48v × 2pcs. The brand is PowerPulse - marketed as being heavily used by the US military in all their Lead Acid batteries.

Interestingly, I have thesame desulphator in my cars and the batteries seem to fire sharply forever until they eventually conk off.

To use the desulphator in deep cycle applications above 12v I have thought of a work around where in a 48v system for example, one attaches three 12v desulphators to three out of four batteries leaving one battery out and rotates the desulphators along to cover the excluded battery from time to time - this way you will get the benefits of desulphation without the high voltage spikes that could ruin your inverter circuitry if it is sensitive to voltage spikes

Thanks so much for the response. Truly the insights and the advice you all give is truly priceless.

Will probably continue alternating batteries for another week or two before I "parallel" them together and will you soon on the desulphators.

Thanks again.

can someone educate me on the max instantenous current draw from a batt bank, without damaging the batt.
eg my 48v 200ah bank, going by 10hr discharge rate, can I assume 20amps is the max draw, thus max allowable instantenous load is 20a x 48v = 1kw load?

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INVERTER

MICROTECH INVERTER
900VA,12V N46,000
1.1KVA,12V N53,000
1.6KVA/24V N72,000
2KVA/24V N80,000
2.6KVA/36V N105,000
3.6KVA/48V N170,000
5.2KVA/48V N340,000.
5.5KVA/96V N340,000
10KVA/180V N790,000


PRAG INVERTER
1.1KVA,12V N70,000
1.2KVA,12V N90,000
1.5KVA/24V N110,000
2.5KVA/24V N125,000
3KVA/24V N170,000
4KVA/48V N320,000.
5KVA/96V N300,000
7.5KVA/120V N500,000
710KVA/180V N600,000




KELVIN INVERTER

2.5KVA/36V N125,000
2.5KVA/48V N125,000
3 KVA/48V N170,000
5KVA/48V N340,000.
5KVA/96V N290,000
7.5KVA/120V N550,000
10KVA/180V N750,000



MUST POWER STAR INVERTER

4kva 3000W 24V N 220,000
4kva 3000W 48V N 260,000
5kva 4000W 48V N 350,000
6kva 5000W 48V N 400,000
7.5kva 6000W 48V N 450,000



HYBRID INVERTER

VOLTRON SERIES
1.4KVA/12(30A N65,000
2.4KVA/24V50A N97,000
3KVA /48V 60A MPPT N220,000
5KVA /48V 60A MPPT N310,000
7.5KVA /48V 60A MPPT N430,000
10KVA /48V 100A MPPT N750,000
15KVA /48V 60A MPPT N850,000
15KVA /48V 120A MPPT N890,000





BATTERY

LONG BATTERY
LONG BATTERY 12V/100AH N 67,000
LONG BATTERY 12V/150AH N 100,000
LONG BATTERY 12V/200AH N 120,000

MONBAT SLIM BATTERY
MONBAT BATTERY 12V/100AH N 75,000
MONBAT BATTERY 12V/200AH N 125,000
MONBAT BATTERY 12V/210AH N 120,000


ELSON BATTERY
ELSON BATTERY 12V/200AH N 115,000

MICROTEC BATTERY
MICROTEC BATTERY 12V/200AH N 105,000

EASTMAN BATTERY

EASTMAN 12V/200AH TALL TUBULAR BATTERY N110,000
EASTMAN 12V/200AH TALL TUBULAR GEL BATTERY N115,000

GLT BATTERY
GLT BATTERY 12V/100AH N 45,000
GLT BATTERY 12V/150AH N 65,000
GLT BATTERY 12V/200AH N 90,000

ZEEDIX BATTERY
ZEEDIX BATTERY 12V/100AH N 45,000
ZEEDIX BATTERY 12V/150AH N 70,000
ZEEDIX BATTERY 12V/200AH N 90,000


RITAR/COWIN BATTERY
RITAR BATTERY 12V/100AH N 62,000
RITAR BATTERY 12V/150AH N 90,000
RITAR BATTERY 12V/200AH N 125,000

PRAG BATTERY

PRAG BATTERY 12V/200AH N 140,000

PATTERN BATTERY

PATTERN BATTERY 12V/200AH N105,000

QUANTA BATTERY
QUANTA BATTERY 12V/100AH N 70,000
QUANTA BATTERY 12V/150AH N 98,000
QUANTA BATTERY 12V/200AH N 125,000


BATTERY RACK
BATTERY RACK 2 BATTERY N 15,000
BATTERY RACK 4 BATTERIES N 30,000
BATTERY RACK 8 BATTERIES N 50,000


CHARGE CONTROLLER
ROY SOLAR SERIES
20A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 20,000
30A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 25,000
40A 48v PWM controller (LED) N 50,000
30A 96v PWM controller (LCD) N 120,000
60A 48v PWM controller (LCD) N 95,000


COWIN SERIES
20A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 15,000
30A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 20,000
40A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 25,000
50A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 32,000
60A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 41,000
40A 48v PWM controller (LED) N 25,000
50A 48v PWM controller (LED) N 32,000
60A 48v PWM controller (LED) N 50,000

COWIN MPPT SERIES

40A 12/24/48v MPPT controller (LCD) N 80,000
60A 12/24/48V MPPT controller (LCD) N 130,000

EPEVER MPPT SERIES
12/24/48 /45A N 145,000
12/24/48 /60A N165,000


FANGUNPSUN MPPT SERIES
30A 24V N40,000
60A 48v N150,000
70A 48v N170,000
80A 48v N180,000

SOLAR S

JOY SOLAR
150w MONO -N32,000
200w MONO -N33,000
260w MONO -N54,000
320w MONO -N73,000

TRINA SOLAR

300w MONO -N85,000
320w MONO -N110,000


YINGLIN SOLAR
100w POLY -N22,000
150w POLY -N33,000
200w POLY -N39,000
260w POLY -N51,000
310w POLY -N62,000


100w MONO-N25,000
150w MONO -N33,000
200w MONO -N39,000
260w MONO -N59,000
320w MONO -N74,000

CANADIAN SOLAR

MONO-
290w. N60,000
330w. N66,000

POLY
270w. N45,000
275w. N59,000

ACCESSORIES

PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 15A N7,000
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 25A N9,000

BATTERY BALANCER HA02 48V 35K

DC CIRCUIT BREAKER 63A/120V---500V 2 POLE N 8,000
DC CIRCUIT BREAKER 125A/500V 2 POLE N 14,000


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Yes.
The batteries wont be damaged if the rate of discharge is exceeded, only its effective capacity will be reduced (Peukert's law)

Reprobate:
...eg my 48v 200ah C10 rated battery bank, can I assume 20amps is the max draw, thus max allowable instantaneous load is 20a x 48v = 1kw load?

Barezzi:
Nice work NiyiOmoIyunade and bigrovar!!
I run on grid from 6pm to midnight if available daily.
Once it's midnight, grid is dropped and I run off batteries till 6pm and the cycle repeats.

I never charge with grid though.

Hi Barezzi,
Please how did you achieve using the grid to power your AC load w/out the inverter charging the batteries at the same time? I use a Magnum Inverter and haven't been able to see a setting that will allow me to turn off the charger completely (can only regulate the charging rate)

I would ideally want an automated arrangement that would allow grid power to thru the inverter when available from 6pm to midnight w/out the inverter charging my batteries with that grid power

I sold my Magnum inverter and bought a Gennex hybrid.
It has settings that allow intentional islanding and grid thru with the charger off.

I have forgotten, but i think the magnum allows you to set the charge current to zero.

Chuckdee:


Hi Barezzi,
Please how did you achieve using the grid to power your AC load w/out the inverter charging the batteries at the same time? I use a Magnum Inverter and haven't been able to see a setting that will allow me to turn off the charger completely (can only regulate the charging rate)

I would ideally want an automated arrangement that would allow grid power to thru the inverter when available from 6pm to midnight w/out the inverter charging my batteries with that grid power

chuckdee,
if you're using the magnum ms4348pe with the advanced remote me-arc50,
there is a button for turning off the charger completely. Also, you can program
the charger to cut-off and cut-in at certain times of the day, say from 6am to
6pm. This among many options make the magnum a very robust beast of an
inverter.

makavele:


Keep 8 sharp ones for me sir !

Good to meet with you . . Thanks for the patronage Sir ! Cheer's

GeorgeD1:
chuckdee,
if you're using the magnum ms4348pe with the advanced remote me-arc50,
there is a button for turning off the charger completely. Also, you can program
the charger to cut-off and cut-in at certain times of the day, say from 6am to
6pm. This among many options make the magnum a very robust beast of an
inverter.

Good point !

Ritar 12v 105a mtn used front access telecom batteries very limited stock

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kiekie1:


Good to meet with you . . Thanks for the patronage Sir ! Cheer's

Anytime! anyday!

Trojan L16P 6 Volt, 420 AH

looking for Trojan L16P 6 Volt, 420 AH,


any one has ?

godspeed:


Thanks bro

In all honesty, deep down, I have always suspected the charge controller.

I have no problems changing it if it is definitely it's the cause of the problem.

Can I be sure I'll enjoy up to 15 hrs (the battery' s full charge capacity )if I get a new charge controller ? Which do you recommend ?

Then, do I really also need to change the inverter too. I think the inverter is ok, it's one of the best out there for home use

Hello house

So much confusion everywhere ooo!

So I got a professional installer to take a look at my set up and confirm why the battery is not charging.

First thing he said is that instead of using 2 250watts s, I should have gone for 4 150 watts s, because this according to him, gives me more amperage - 8 amps each translating to 32 amps. He said the battery (220 ah) requires 22 amps to charge while I can use the excess amps to power my appliances.

He claims the 2 s I have presently generates max of 12 amps which he claims can never charge the battery full.

He also tested the voltage coming thru the CC and got ~36 volts, this he said is too much for the CC as it's designed for 12-24 volts and claims the excess volts is not healthy for the CC and it's preventing it from working optimally.

I had him speak with my installer and he said why he used 250 watts is to get 24 volts which can be converted to more current to charge the battery.

Both of them just left me confused with their technical jargons but both agree I need to change theCC to MPPT.

When the professional guy says I need to add one more 250 watts to be able to get a full charge on the battery daily, my installer claims changing the CC to MPPT will fix the problem as it will convert excess volts to current which is sufficient to charge the battery full.

So house, I'm really so confused

I'm getting close to 15V from my Luminous inbuilt controller..
Hope I'm safe

Dam5reey:
I'm getting close to 15V from my Luminous inbuilt controller..
Hope I'm safe

Pls can I see a pic of this inverter

[quote author=JUO post Flex max 80a fangpusun 156k
Flex max 60a fangpusun 135k
50a-12/24v 45k. 46k
50aD-12/24v 60k
60a-12/24v/36v/48v 110k.
60aD-12/24v/36v/48v 125k
70a-12/24v/36v/48v 135k with display
45a-12/24v/36v/48v 75k
30a-12/24v 35k
Battery balancer HA02 48v 35k
Battery balancer Fangpusun 24v-25k
MPPT- CONTROL 16K
epever 30a+MT50 12/24v (CN) 50k
epever 30a 12/24v 50k
epever 40a 12/24v 56k
epever 40AN 12/24v 60k
BMV 702 FANGPUSUN 42K
BMV 700 FANGPUSUN 38K
ATS-220V/63A-16K
Watts meter with clock and 50Hz/60Hz
Monitor Analyser 7k
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 15/16a 5k din rail
PROGRAMMABLE Digital timer 25a 7k din rail/wall mount
Energy efficient ceiling fan AC/DC '56' 6-36w 25k
080-987-337-09. 68353800][/quote]
96V to 384v mppt available. Maximum PV input 850v

godspeed:


Pls can I see a pic of this inverter

500VA version

ebocoms:
Ok thanks @pranil. Is it the -Ve from the inverter that would through the breaker or the the -Ve (jumper cable) that would through the breaker B?

If you send the visio native file to me I can redraw but basically - battery -ve from the battery to DC breaker and then toshunt battery side

same with +VE - from Battery +ve to breaker first and then to inverters, CC + VE ETC


Also note DC breakers can have polarity and the side marked with +Ve symbol should be on the battery side ( side with the highest voltage of power flow possible)

godspeed:


Hello house

So much confusion everywhere ooo!

So I got a professional installer to take a look at my set up and confirm why the battery is not charging.

First thing he said is that instead of using 2 250watts s, I should have gone for 4 150 watts s, because this according to him, gives me more amperage - 8 amps each translating to 32 amps. He said the battery (220 ah) requires 22 amps to charge while I can use the excess amps to power my appliances.

He claims the 2 s I have presently generates max of 12 amps which he claims can never charge the battery full.

He also tested the voltage coming thru the CC and got ~36 volts, this he said is too much for the CC as it's designed for 12-24 volts and claims the excess volts is not healthy for the CC and it's preventing it from working optimally.

I had him speak with my installer and he said why he used 250 watts is to get 24 volts which can be converted to more current to charge the battery.

Both of them just left me confused with their technical jargons but both agree I need to change the CC to MPPT.

When the professional guy says I need to add one more 250 watts to be able to get a full charge on the battery daily, my installer claims changing the CC to MPPT will fix the problem as it will convert excess volts to current which is sufficient to charge the battery full.

So house, I'm really so confused

Stop thinking of Wattage, voltages etc, PV s are not generators. They are you diesel tanks Inverter is Generator while PV + Battery provides the energy to run the inverter ( Generator).

A good installer then should match the correct voltages, currents etc based on the products used.

Most important to think is Total energy required in the day


The minimum you should target is in KWH is atleast 50 % of Battery capacity ( 2.4 Kwh for you I guess ) + amount of energy used during the sunny period in the day



What you need a Quality MPPT CC preferably which can handle 100 V or Above input ( Voc) then you can connect s in series That way you reduce the cabling loss and the CC will wake up earlier in the morning and go to sleep late maximizing the usage of the 500 watt

you should get typically 1.5 2 KWH on Average yield from 500 Watt s with correct Cc and installation - The Yield ( energy is important ) not the wattages, If you are using inverter/battery in afternoon you will have to calculate how many units you typically use in afternoon and increase the size to address that. in your case you have the possibility of to 250 x 2 ( 2 in series) or 250 x 4( 2 series, 2 strings parallel) or 250 x 3 ( 3 in parallel or series depending on CC)

He is not a professional installer! get an mppt cc and connect those two s in series and you are good. better still patronise installer from this forum and have rest of mind.

godspeed:


Hello house

So much confusion everywhere ooo!

So I got a professional installer to take a look at my set up and confirm why the battery is not charging.

First thing he said is that instead of using 2 250watts s, I should have gone for 4 150 watts s, because this according to him, gives me more amperage - 8 amps each translating to 32 amps. He said the battery (220 ah) requires 22 amps to charge while I can use the excess amps to power my appliances.

He claims the 2 s I have presently generates max of 12 amps which he claims can never charge the battery full.

He also tested the voltage coming thru the CC and got ~36 volts, this he said is too much for the CC as it's designed for 12-24 volts and claims the excess volts is not healthy for the CC and it's preventing it from working optimally.

I had him speak with my installer and he said why he used 250 watts is to get 24 volts which can be converted to more current to charge the battery.

Both of them just left me confused with their technical jargons but both agree I need to change theCC to MPPT.

When the professional guy says I need to add one more 250 watts to be able to get a full charge on the battery daily, my installer claims changing the CC to MPPT will fix the problem as it will convert excess volts to current which is sufficient to charge the battery full.

So house, I'm really so confused

DMerciful:
He is not a professional installer! get an mppt cc and connect those two s in series and you are good. better still patronise installer from this forum and have rest of mind.

Thanks

What's the implications of connecting in series? Pls bear in mind that my Inverter is just 12 v and the maximum load by my calculations is 150 watts

Does anyone have any experience buying batteries from Alaba??

Reprobate:
can someone educate me on the max instantenous current draw from a batt bank, without damaging the batt.
eg my 48v 200ah bank, going by 10hr discharge rate, can I assume 20amps is the max draw, thus max allowable instantenous load is 20a x 48v = 1kw load?

Pretty risky assumption and could lead to early battery failure. Inverter and cabling inefficiencies usually total a minimum of 15% of the power (translated as 85% efficiency). Your 20A pragmatically becomes 17A (assuming C/10 discharge).

Most FLA batteries won't safely take beyond C/8 as discharge (AGM often can tolerate higher). Assuming the stress limit of C/8, that's 21A (though I see no point in pushing batteries to their limits unless absolutely necessary).

Then there's the issue of variable inverter self-consumption ...

Connecting in series will ensure ur system wakes up on time and sleeps late wrt sun rise and sunset however since your system is 12v and most 250w s are 35V Voc it means that connecting in parallel is fine but you need to get an mppt controller. This has the ability to convert excess voltage to current just to put it simply. me for this controller... See my signature

godspeed:


Thanks

What's the implications of connecting in series? Pls bear in mind that my Inverter is just 12 v and the maximum load by my calculations is 150 watts

Kindly let me have the email to send the raw visio file to. It can also be ed from the dropbox link below
https://www.dropbox.com/s/scchgdg4jjg0msq/SolarConnection-edited.vsd?dl=0

My email is ebocoms (at) yahoo (dot) com. Thank you.

pranil:


If you send the visio native file to me I can redraw but basically - battery -ve from the battery to DC breaker and then toshunt battery side

same with +VE - from Battery +ve to breaker first and then to inverters, CC + VE ETC


Also note DC breakers can have polarity and the side marked with +Ve symbol should be on the battery side ( side with the highest voltage of power flow possible)

DMerciful:
Connecting in series will ensure ur system wakes up on time and sleeps late wrt sun rise and sunset however since your system is 12v and most 250w s are 35V Voc it means that connecting in parallel is fine but you need to get an mppt controller. This has the ability to convert excess voltage to current just to put it simply. me for this controller... See my signature

Lemme see a pic of the controller

NB each of my is 24v