NewStats: 3,261,089 , 8,173,023 topics. Date: Wednesday, 28 May 2025 at 08:15 AM 3g4x57

Burchester:


Oh okay thank you. But the vibrations could it be the engine seat were not properly installed ?./ Since its only when On (D) and idle. Before it wasn't like that.

I’m sure something must have prompted you to attempt changing the engine mounts. Vibrations right?

If the vibrations worsened then it’s a sign that the job wasn’t well done although the faulty vtc issue will definitely throw your vehicle into a limp mode and give it a reduced engine power hence some vibrations too.

Very accurate

Conner44:


I’m sure something must have prompted you to attempt changing the engine mounts. Vibrations right?

If the vibrations worsened then it’s a sign that the job wasn’t well done although the faulty vtc issue will definitely throw your vehicle into a limp mode and give it a reduced engine power hence some vibrations too.

Thank found out. It was the transmission mount that got broken. Also the P0011, was thinking it was due to CAMSHAFT replacement.

Burchester:


Thank found out. It was the transmission mount that got broken. Also the P0011, was thinking it was due to CAMSHAFT replacement.

Did you replace camshaft. It could be the reason

Burchester:


Thank found out. It was the transmission mount that got broken. Also the P0011, was thinking it was due to CAMSHAFT replacement.

Camshaft replacement as a solution for the P0011 is possible but it should be the last possible resort.

The vtc actuator is on the intake camshaft. The related stuff that could have an issue could be the wire harness and its plug to the vtc solenoid, the solenoid itself of its 2 filters/screens if they are dirty.

If you’ve shocked all others and they are okay then I believe the vtc actuator itself would have to be scrutinized and replaced.

Sometimes an engine timing issue can throw that code too as it’s the chains that control the camshafts but you’d also get a camshaft sensor related code too.

Dozieson:


Did you replace camshaft. It could be the reason

@Burchester

Oh so it’s after the immediately after a camshaft replacement that you began noticing this issue? Why didn’t you say that before obviously there’s something wrong with the replacement or it’s installation.

Anytime a car develops issues, especially in Nigeria . . . the first thing to flashback to is the last repairs/maintenance you had done on the vehicle.

Guys I've had this problem for a while now....took it to many meco and rewire no solutions.
The car finds it hard to accelerate when coming to a stop.
Let's say am in traffic just on D, when it's time to move the car wouldn't respond especially when the AC is on.
Honda civic 04.
Scanned it no codes ever since it started.
Changed
Fuel pump
Service injectors
Plug
Map sensor
Top engine switch
Reset the timing.

When the AC isn't on it doesn't really do it.

Thurmieee:
Guys I've had this problem for a while now....took it to many meco and rewire no solutions.
The car finds it hard to accelerate when coming to a stop.
Let's say am in traffic just on D, when it's time to move the car wouldn't respond especially when the AC is on.
Honda civic 04.
Scanned it no codes ever since it started.
Changed
Fuel pump
Service injectors
Plug
Map sensor
Top engine switch
Reset the timing.

When the AC isn't on it doesn't really do it.

This thing sounds like a classic fuel delivery problem. Have you checked the throttle cable? I’d have suspected the TPS sensor, weak/wrong plugs or a gearbox issue but they should all throw a code.

If truly you’re not having any codes with this issue and you’ve replaced all those items you listed with good units then I think someone knowledgeable needs to use a proper scan tool to view and monitor your ecu’s live readings. Something is disturbing the delivery of Spark, air or fuel.

Conner44:


This thing sounds like a classic fuel delivery problem. Have you checked the throttle cable? I’d have suspected the TPS sensor, weak/wrong plugs or a gearbox issue but they should all throw a code.

If truly you’re not having any codes with this issue and you’ve replaced all those items you listed with good units then I think someone knowledgeable needs to use a proper scan tool to view and monitor your ecu’s live readings. Something is disturbing the delivery of Spark, air or fuel.

Do you have anyone you can recommend. Cos this oyingbo mechanics are not different from the normal one I do use

Thurmieee:
Guys I've had this problem for a while now....took it to many meco and rewire no solutions.
The car finds it hard to accelerate when coming to a stop.
Let's say am in traffic just on D, when it's time to move the car wouldn't respond especially when the AC is on.
Honda civic 04.
Scanned it no codes ever since it started.
Changed
Fuel pump
Service injectors
Plug
Map sensor
Top engine switch
Reset the timing.

When the AC isn't on it doesn't really do it.

Sometimes the rpm can just drop to like 300

Thurmieee:

Do you have anyone you can recommend. Cos this oyingbo mechanics are not different from the normal one I do use

Are you sure your ac or it’s components are not the source of your problems? Did you do any work concerning it before the issue started?

Sadly I don’t know anyone to recommend.

Thurmieee:

Sometimes the rpm can just drop to like 300

But will it stay there or immediately return back up?

What are your rpm’s without ac and with ac on?

Without ac and with ac on with your gear in D and your foot on your brakes ?

Conner44:


Are you sure your ac or it’s components are not the source of your problems? Did you do any work concerning it before the issue started?

Sadly I don’t know anyone to recommend.

Didn't touch the AC. It was after I changed the top gasket .

Conner44:


But will it stay there or immediately return back up?

What are your rpm’s without ac and with ac on?

Without ac and with ac on with your gear in D and your foot on your brakes ?

When it's in D no AC. It's 1000
When ac is on 700
Don't no about the brake.
It can stay in 300 for a few minutes and then it goes off.
If I put it in D with the AC on......no movement it'll eventually turn off

Dozieson:


Did you replace camshaft. It could be the reason

Yes, I did replaced the camshaft.

Conner44:


@Burchester

Oh so it’s after the immediately after a camshaft replacement that you began noticing this issue? Why didn’t you say that before obviously there’s something wrong with the replacement or it’s installation.

Anytime a car develops issues, especially in Nigeria . . . the first thing to flashback to is the last repairs/maintenance you had done on the vehicle.

Yes had this code after my camshaft was fixed, and the code was still there, so the mechanic said we should replace the camshaft as the code still persist, So I changed the camshaft, yet again the code is still back.

Thurmieee:

When it's in D no AC. It's 1000
When ac is on 700
Don't no about the brake.
It can stay in 300 for a few minutes and then it goes off.
If I put it in D with the AC on......no movement it'll eventually turn off

Check your air intake line. From air filter to throttle position sensor to dirty throttle body

Burchester:


Yes had this code after my camshaft was fixed, and the code was still there, so the mechanic said we should replace the camshaft as the code still persist, So I changed the camshaft, yet again the code is still back.

Did you change with new one or toks? If you fill the engine oil to gauge will the code still be there ? Hope the camshaft or actuator has not been welded ?

Dozieson:


Did you change with new one or toks? If you fill the engine oil to gauge will the code still be there ? Hope the camshaft or actuator has not been welded ?

The mechanic said it was toks, yes the code is still there after gauge. I don't think so, as the one was replacement no welding.

Thurmieee:

Didn't touch the AC. It was after I changed the top gasket .

So according to you the head gasket job was done first, then you noticed your check engine light on and realized your camshaft was bad? Then you changed the camshaft? And still kept having the code?

It’s obvious the replacement was bad or the installation was a shoddy job. You need to take it apart, inspect the vtc actuator and camshaft for issues (for welding too as someone rightly posted above) and install it all again especially the engine timing sequence.

Thurmieee:

When it's in D no AC. It's 1000
When ac is on 700
Don't no about the brake.
It can stay in 300 for a few minutes and then it goes off.
If I put it in D with the AC on......no movement it'll eventually turn off

This has to do with your throttle body. I suspect your iacv is sticking or dirty. The wiring is good hence no codes but mechanically it might be stuttering.

Try to clean it and if no improvement I think it’s then time you try a fresh throttle body complete with all the sensors (TPS & IACV ) intact and untouched.

Conner44:


This has to do with your throttle body. I suspect your iacv is sticking or dirty. The wiring is good hence no codes but mechanically it might be stuttering.

Try to clean it and if no improvement I think it’s then time you try a fresh throttle body complete with all the sensors (TPS & IACV ) intact and untouched.
We put a new throttle body same.

Conner44:


So according to you the head gasket job was done first, then you noticed your check engine light on and realized your camshaft was bad? Then you changed the camshaft? And still kept having the code?

It’s obvious the replacement was bad or the installation was a shoddy job. You need to take it apart, inspect the vtc actuator and camshaft for issues (for welding too as someone rightly posted above) and install it all again especially the engine timing sequence.

The camera sensor that was changed want bringing code dey just changed for changing sake.
It didn't bring any code. The codes it brought then were for the VTEC wire that cut.
Since I changed the gasket the car hasn't run at optimal performance again

2009 honda fit with 1.5 ltr engine is consuming fuel like a v6 car..
Please i need help

good day Guys, please I need an informed response to my question.

I have a Honda pilot 2004, which I have packed for over a year now, I want to start using it so I went to the mechanic and do the necessary servicing.
but I noticed that my brakes are not working correctly when I step on the brake pedals, I will have to press to the floor before it holds the car, I thought it was worn-out brake pads, so I changed the brake pads to Asimco brake pads, but still, the problem persists. please what might be wrong?, is it a faulty ABS or something else?.. I need informed answers before I take it to the mechanic again...thanks

okeyz:
good day Guys, please I need an informed response to my question.

I have a Honda pilot 2004, which I have packed for over a year now, I want to start using it so I went to the mechanic and do the necessary servicing.
but I noticed that my brakes are not working correctly when I step on the brake pedals, I will have to press to the floor before it holds the car, I thought it was worn-out brake pads, so I changed the brake pads to Asimco brake pads, but still, the problem persists. please what might be wrong?, is it a faulty ABS or something else?.. I need informed answers before I take it to the mechanic again...thanks

Check brake fluid level and confirm no leak. The fluid may have disintegrated so bleed all out and replace with new fluid, ensuring no leak.

okeyz:
good day Guys, please I need an informed response to my question.

I have a Honda pilot 2004, which I have packed for over a year now, I want to start using it so I went to the mechanic and do the necessary servicing.
but I noticed that my brakes are not working correctly when I step on the brake pedals, I will have to press to the floor before it holds the car, I thought it was worn-out brake pads, so I changed the brake pads to Asimco brake pads, but still, the problem persists. please what might be wrong?, is it a faulty ABS or something else?.. I need informed answers before I take it to the mechanic again...thanks

bleed the entire system

Kanoski:
2009 honda fit with 1.5 ltr engine is consuming fuel like a v6 car..
Please i need help

AF oxygen sensor’s (the one on the exhaust manifold) wiring should be checked for issues or the sensor replaced

Your thermostat is either missing or your cooling fans are running directly from battery, you must return your thermostat and rewire your fans back as factory recommended

okeyz:
good day Guys, please I need an informed response to my question.

I have a Honda pilot 2004, which I have packed for over a year now, I want to start using it so I went to the mechanic and do the necessary servicing.
but I noticed that my brakes are not working correctly when I step on the brake pedals, I will have to press to the floor before it holds the car, I thought it was worn-out brake pads, so I changed the brake pads to Asimco brake pads, but still, the problem persists. please what might be wrong?, is it a faulty ABS or something else?.. I need informed answers before I take it to the mechanic again...thanks

I’d suspect your brake master cylinder if you’ve done what the posters above recommended without any improvement.

Dozieson:


bleed the entire system

thanks..i will do just that this Saturday..

Conner44:


I’d suspect your brake master cylinder if you’ve done what the posters above recommended without any improvement.

ok I will check on that too
thanks a lot..i will let you know the outcome..thanks

Good day guys,

Left my honda city running while I branched to get some vegetables, I didn't spend up to 5 mins. 30 seconds after I drove the car, the battery and engine oil light popped on and the car stopped accelerating. Pushed the car to side of the road, then turned it off and on. The lights the come on again but I'm worried. Anyone have any idea why those two warning lights popped on at the same time?